Loading Notifications...
12m.

Rockfax Description
Direct up the arete, keeping out of the corner all the way to the ledge. At the top, head left to join The Sod. © Rockfax

FA. Mike Vaicaitis 19/Jul/1995.

Ticklists

The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Portland, Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Samworkman1989 20 Sep Show βeta
βeta: nice route but glad to be done with it. Very crimpy especially on the left hand.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: nice route but glad to be done with it. Very crimpy especially on the left hand.
BennyBoy 21 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: What a wicked route! I think it has a least 2 7a+ moves on it, Well worth a try.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a wicked route! I think it has a least 2 7a+ moves on it, Well worth a try.
Lloyders 22 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: good pumpy route for those only just getting into the 7's. felt bouldery and once you know the moves not that hard. worth doing. stay on the arete
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: good pumpy route for those only just getting into the 7's. felt bouldery and once you know the moves not that hard. worth doing. stay on the arete
hippo99 3 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: awsome route but as some one who boulders alot il definatly say that its a big boulder problem and for me was easy but my friend who is more of a routes guy found it alot harder so if ur a boulderer and wanna climb f7a+ then get on it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: awsome route but as some one who boulders alot il definatly say that its a big boulder problem and for me was easy but my friend who is more of a routes guy found it alot harder so if ur a boulderer and wanna climb f7a+ then get on it
airbournegrapefruit 18 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: well it took me a couple of months, but i have finally cracked it. cheers to all who played a part.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: well it took me a couple of months, but i have finally cracked it. cheers to all who played a part.
airbournegrapefruit 20 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: well got just past the pocket this time round followed by me slipping of the big rail before i clipped the 3rd bolt. that hurt a bit!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: well got just past the pocket this time round followed by me slipping of the big rail before i clipped the 3rd bolt. that hurt a bit!!
airbournegrapefruit 19 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: i think i need sticky fingers for this one. i can never make the left hand crip before the pocket.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i think i need sticky fingers for this one. i can never make the left hand crip before the pocket.
Oli 20 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with Richard that getting your feet up above the first bolt is the redpoint crux, at least for inflexible gits like me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with Richard that getting your feet up above the first bolt is the redpoint crux, at least for inflexible gits like me.
Steve McQueen 11 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The whole thing is over quite quickly, but the last move to the ledge definitely feels like the redpoint crux for me, weak as I am...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The whole thing is over quite quickly, but the last move to the ledge definitely feels like the redpoint crux for me, weak as I am...
Richard Horn 16 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I did this last weekend - found it harder than all the F7a's I have redpointed, so cant agree it is soft F7a. It is sustained fingery climbing for about 5 consecutive moves which isnt my ideal cup of tea but I suppose it would feel easier for a hardened boulderer. Also, cant agree with Aluns statement it is all over when you have clipped the 3rd bolt - I find the last move reaching the top and getting feet up to the ledge as hard any other on the route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did this last weekend - found it harder than all the F7a's I have redpointed, so cant agree it is soft F7a. It is sustained fingery climbing for about 5 consecutive moves which isnt my ideal cup of tea but I suppose it would feel easier for a hardened boulderer. Also, cant agree with Aluns statement it is all over when you have clipped the 3rd bolt - I find the last move reaching the top and getting feet up to the ledge as hard any other on the route.
Alun 8 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The description says quite clearly not to stray into the corner, so don't! Pumpy moves to start off with before a delicate move to reach the 3rd bolt. Once you're there it's all over, except for the excitement of clipping the bolt when you're knackered!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The description says quite clearly not to stray into the corner, so don't! Pumpy moves to start off with before a delicate move to reach the 3rd bolt. Once you're there it's all over, except for the excitement of clipping the bolt when you're knackered!
crispygts 21 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: I did it the other day, cool route really with some fun moves. (I thought it fairly obvious that you dont stray off into the corner though!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I did it the other day, cool route really with some fun moves. (I thought it fairly obvious that you dont stray off into the corner though!)
JIMBO 18 Oct, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: It is only 6c+/7a if you dive left into the groove too early! Make sure (to get the 7a+) you stay on the arete all the way until you are standing on the ledge...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is only 6c+/7a if you dive left into the groove too early! Make sure (to get the 7a+) you stay on the arete all the way until you are standing on the ledge...
JIMBO 23 Mar, 2000 Show βeta
βeta: A very tight eliminate with some good moves best left till you've done everything else!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A very tight eliminate with some good moves best left till you've done everything else!

Logged Ascents

361 users have logged this
42 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 108
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Animal Magnetism

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Lulworth)