Rockfax Description
Climb direct up the arete, keeping out of the corner all the way to the ledge. At the top, head left to join The Sod. © Rockfax
FA. Mike Vaicaitis 19/Jul/1995.
The Cuttings Sport Climbing Apprenticeship , South coast sport/DWS ticklist , Portland , Portland 7a/+
User | Date | Notes | ||
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PiKo | 4 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tried some dyno move to a small crimp in the hardest part of the crux but felt hard and lottery, so substituted this beta with 4-5 technical moves on tiny crimps with heel on the arete. Guess for such a short route and condensed difficulty, the 7a+ grade is fine | ||
Show beta
βeta: Tried some dyno move to a small crimp in the hardest part of the crux but felt hard and lottery, so substituted this beta with 4-5 technical moves on tiny crimps with heel on the arete. Guess for such a short route and condensed difficulty, the 7a+ grade is fine |
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Samworkman1989 | 20 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: nice route but glad to be done with it. Very crimpy especially on the left hand. | βeta? | |
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βeta: nice route but glad to be done with it. Very crimpy especially on the left hand. |
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BennyBoy | 21 May, 2007 |
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βeta: What a wicked route! I think it has a least 2 7a+ moves on it, Well worth a try. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: What a wicked route! I think it has a least 2 7a+ moves on it, Well worth a try. |
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Lloyders | 22 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: good pumpy route for those only just getting into the 7's. felt bouldery and once you know the moves not that hard. worth doing. stay on the arete | βeta? | |
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βeta: good pumpy route for those only just getting into the 7's. felt bouldery and once you know the moves not that hard. worth doing. stay on the arete |
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hippo99 | 3 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: awsome route but as some one who boulders alot il definatly say that its a big boulder problem and for me was easy but my friend who is more of a routes guy found it alot harder so if ur a boulderer and wanna climb f7a+ then get on it | βeta? | |
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βeta: awsome route but as some one who boulders alot il definatly say that its a big boulder problem and for me was easy but my friend who is more of a routes guy found it alot harder so if ur a boulderer and wanna climb f7a+ then get on it |
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airbournegrapefruit | 18 Dec, 2006 |
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βeta: well it took me a couple of months, but i have finally cracked it. cheers to all who played a part. | βeta? | |
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βeta: well it took me a couple of months, but i have finally cracked it. cheers to all who played a part. |
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airbournegrapefruit | 20 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: well got just past the pocket this time round followed by me slipping of the big rail before i clipped the 3rd bolt. that hurt a bit!! | βeta? | |
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βeta: well got just past the pocket this time round followed by me slipping of the big rail before i clipped the 3rd bolt. that hurt a bit!! |
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airbournegrapefruit | 19 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: i think i need sticky fingers for this one. i can never make the left hand crip before the pocket. | βeta? | |
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βeta: i think i need sticky fingers for this one. i can never make the left hand crip before the pocket. |
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Oli | 20 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: I agree with Richard that getting your feet up above the first bolt is the redpoint crux, at least for inflexible gits like me. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I agree with Richard that getting your feet up above the first bolt is the redpoint crux, at least for inflexible gits like me. |
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Steve McQueen | 11 Feb, 2006 |
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βeta: The whole thing is over quite quickly, but the last move to the ledge definitely feels like the redpoint crux for me, weak as I am... | βeta? | |
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βeta: The whole thing is over quite quickly, but the last move to the ledge definitely feels like the redpoint crux for me, weak as I am... |
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Richard Horn | 16 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: I did this last weekend - found it harder than all the F7a's I have redpointed, so cant agree it is soft F7a. It is sustained fingery climbing for about 5 consecutive moves which isnt my ideal cup of tea but I suppose it would feel easier for a hardened boulderer. Also, cant agree with Aluns statement it is all over when you have clipped the 3rd bolt - I find the last move reaching the top and getting feet up to the ledge as hard any other on the route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I did this last weekend - found it harder than all the F7a's I have redpointed, so cant agree it is soft F7a. It is sustained fingery climbing for about 5 consecutive moves which isnt my ideal cup of tea but I suppose it would feel easier for a hardened boulderer. Also, cant agree with Aluns statement it is all over when you have clipped the 3rd bolt - I find the last move reaching the top and getting feet up to the ledge as hard any other on the route. |
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Alun | 8 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: The description says quite clearly not to stray into the corner, so don't! Pumpy moves to start off with before a delicate move to reach the 3rd bolt. Once you're there it's all over, except for the excitement of clipping the bolt when you're knackered! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The description says quite clearly not to stray into the corner, so don't! Pumpy moves to start off with before a delicate move to reach the 3rd bolt. Once you're there it's all over, except for the excitement of clipping the bolt when you're knackered! |
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crispygts | 21 Sep, 2002 |
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βeta: I did it the other day, cool route really with some fun moves. (I thought it fairly obvious that you dont stray off into the corner though!) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: I did it the other day, cool route really with some fun moves. (I thought it fairly obvious that you dont stray off into the corner though!) |
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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Coastguard South)