Rockfax Description
The wide corner/groove. A long and interesting pitch that culminates in a spectacular pull over the roof on a good pocket. © Rockfax
Portland for the beginner (lead climbs) , 4 - 5 Grade Climbs at The Cuttings , Portland , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport)
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Stephen Nunes | 1 May |
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βeta: Crack gloves | βeta? | |
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βeta: Crack gloves |
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Ari_kneebars | 19 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Great warm up route but a LOT of pigeon poop in the crack… | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great warm up route but a LOT of pigeon poop in the crack… |
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Tommy Gunn | 1 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: looks like a wasp nest 2/3 up | βeta? | |
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βeta: looks like a wasp nest 2/3 up |
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luke43 | 30 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: super route, easier than it looks! | βeta? | |
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βeta: super route, easier than it looks! |
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Garyx | 21 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: I really like this climb, for ages I couldn't complete it until today when I led it!! A nemisis no more! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I really like this climb, for ages I couldn't complete it until today when I led it!! A nemisis no more! |
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omniscient_penguin | 18 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: This is a good, enjoyable climb although very dusty about half way up. The start is a stepladder but once up into the crack the overhang provides the crux. Not an especially difficult move as there are nice juggy grips on the left hand side above the overhang, but if your bridging technique is anywhere near as shoddy as mine this becomes a tough climb. With bridging it's pretty much a straight run up and a reach over. Very much a mindgame for me: it's quite high to be trusting to friction. | βeta? | |
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βeta: This is a good, enjoyable climb although very dusty about half way up. The start is a stepladder but once up into the crack the overhang provides the crux. Not an especially difficult move as there are nice juggy grips on the left hand side above the overhang, but if your bridging technique is anywhere near as shoddy as mine this becomes a tough climb. With bridging it's pretty much a straight run up and a reach over. Very much a mindgame for me: it's quite high to be trusting to friction. |
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shane | 31 Jan, 2006 |
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βeta: Led this on 28/1/6. Really nice moves in a big corner with overhang at top. Will do this again and should see much more traffic. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Led this on 28/1/6. Really nice moves in a big corner with overhang at top. Will do this again and should see much more traffic. |
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Richard Horn | 12 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Whoever voted 'Bag of' for this route needs to get a life. Ok it is still dusty in places but you wont find many F4s with moves as satisfying and exposed as those round the roof on this route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Whoever voted 'Bag of' for this route needs to get a life. Ok it is still dusty in places but you wont find many F4s with moves as satisfying and exposed as those round the roof on this route. |
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Grade: 5a ***
(Blacknor North)