Loading Notifications...
16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb easily to a ledge. From the right gain a smaller ledge on the left with difficulty and then move up the small groove above precariously to an easing below the final wall. Previously given 4, but now much harder due to the loss of one of the finger tips. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
earthkeptwarm 17 Oct Show βeta
βeta: It's a good route with classic slippy cuttings style holds.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's a good route with classic slippy cuttings style holds.
TomAlford 28 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't think this was much good... Really polished and slippy for the crux mantle thing, ended up doing a much harder sequence up to a crimp (later used as a foot for the final headwall) as it was the only way that didn't feel like I'd just grease out
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Didn't think this was much good... Really polished and slippy for the crux mantle thing, ended up doing a much harder sequence up to a crimp (later used as a foot for the final headwall) as it was the only way that didn't feel like I'd just grease out
migs493 10 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Did the route on Sat, I was just about to send a novice climber up it! I was warned off by another climber, thought it was about 5+.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did the route on Sat, I was just about to send a novice climber up it! I was warned off by another climber, thought it was about 5+.
Lloyders 3 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: IMO appox. Grade 5/5+. Never 6a. A few exposed moves
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: IMO appox. Grade 5/5+. Never 6a. A few exposed moves
omniscient_penguin 3 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Not 6a, the moves in themselves are not hard, just feels occasionally desperate on that top section as you step out when leading. Straight up to the lower off is a power option, whereas breaking right is more balanced climb. At the far top right there's one of those marvelous sticky-out handle grips you find all the time on indoor climbing walls and think to yourself,"like you'd get that on a rock face," sadly you reach it after all the sweating and crying has been done.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not 6a, the moves in themselves are not hard, just feels occasionally desperate on that top section as you step out when leading. Straight up to the lower off is a power option, whereas breaking right is more balanced climb. At the far top right there's one of those marvelous sticky-out handle grips you find all the time on indoor climbing walls and think to yourself,"like you'd get that on a rock face," sadly you reach it after all the sweating and crying has been done.
Ducks Rock 13 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Def not a 4. A hard 5+ or a 6a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Def not a 4. A hard 5+ or a 6a.
omniscient_penguin 18 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: way harder than 4, the last moves are quite exposed. It's quite obvious a large chunk has dropped off - I think I used one bit as a ground anchor?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: way harder than 4, the last moves are quite exposed. It's quite obvious a large chunk has dropped off - I think I used one bit as a ground anchor?
orge 12 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This was my first route at Portland and it nearly sent me packing back up North for the grit! :) Can't say I was having a great day, but I'm glad to see that others feel this was tough for the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was my first route at Portland and it nearly sent me packing back up North for the grit! :) Can't say I was having a great day, but I'm glad to see that others feel this was tough for the grade.
Ben Thorne 3 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Probably is about 5. The move over the 'ledge' (where the finger was) can be done either super-direct or via a rock-over on the right. Both not too hard but a little daunting. Higher up it's just a bit of a reach.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably is about 5. The move over the 'ledge' (where the finger was) can be done either super-direct or via a rock-over on the right. Both not too hard but a little daunting. Higher up it's just a bit of a reach.
Wilbur 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: warmed up on this yesterday to re-check my opinion of the grade and i reckon it's 5+. move frome the ledge up whilst unclipped is precarious and not easy right or straight up. right is really balancy and straight up from the ledge is strengthy. above that is ok-ish but the move to the lower off is solid 5+. F4 is totally wrong!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: warmed up on this yesterday to re-check my opinion of the grade and i reckon it's 5+. move frome the ledge up whilst unclipped is precarious and not easy right or straight up. right is really balancy and straight up from the ledge is strengthy. above that is ok-ish but the move to the lower off is solid 5+. F4 is totally wrong!
shiner 11 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Got sandbagged by this on 10/08/05. It cant be a F4, I havent put on that much weight.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got sandbagged by this on 10/08/05. It cant be a F4, I havent put on that much weight.
Wilbur 12 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: On the plus side loads of people are going to get sandbagged by this as a result of the new guide ;o)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On the plus side loads of people are going to get sandbagged by this as a result of the new guide ;o)
Wilbur 22 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Remember doing this last year in July/Aug and it seemed around easy 6A - poss hard 5+... When did the hold get ripped off/it became easier because no way 4/4+/5 when i did it!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Remember doing this last year in July/Aug and it seemed around easy 6A - poss hard 5+... When did the hold get ripped off/it became easier because no way 4/4+/5 when i did it!!!
Ben Stokes 22 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It was 6a until Gavin Symonds removed half of the 'third finger'. However you are right; 4 is a little mean!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It was 6a until Gavin Symonds removed half of the 'third finger'. However you are right; 4 is a little mean!
Richard Horn 21 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Down as 6a in the update, did this on sunday and thought very easy for 6a, but F4 is having a laugh.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Down as 6a in the update, did this on sunday and thought very easy for 6a, but F4 is having a laugh.

Logged Ascents

983 users have logged this
30 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 117
Votes cast 95
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Underage

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)