Restricted Access
The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
75m.
The crux is short and sharp. A right to left traverse of the Devil’s Rock.
1) 4b. As for Climbers’ Club, to the niche.
2) 5c. Move left, out of the niche, and round the arête. Make a hard move to
gain the crack of Energy Crisis. Up this to the spike on Gideon. Traverse left to
the arête, and across the wall of Scimitar, to belay in Central Groove.
3) 4c. Climb down, move left into Vala, and then up Vala until it is possible to reach
the arête. Move up, and round the arête, then traverse to the tree belay of Vineyard. Finish up Vineyard (Pg 11), or abseil off.
1) 4b. As for Climbers’ Club, to the niche.
2) 5c. Move left, out of the niche, and round the arête. Make a hard move to
gain the crack of Energy Crisis. Up this to the spike on Gideon. Traverse left to
the arête, and across the wall of Scimitar, to belay in Central Groove.
3) 4c. Climb down, move left into Vala, and then up Vala until it is possible to reach
the arête. Move up, and round the arête, then traverse to the tree belay of Vineyard. Finish up Vineyard (Pg 11), or abseil off.
1978.
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Route of Interest
Gargantua
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Daddyhole Main Cliff)