Rockfax Description
A wild expedition up the curving left arete of the main corner. Start below the steep wall, right of a large red corner.
1) 5a, 12m. From some sandy red rock at the base of the crag, move up the right wall on good, but suspect holds to a wide crack, large cam, that ends at a large ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 16m. Climb the groove above and move up left to a rest. Climb up the steep left side of the arete and then step right to the arete. Pull into a large sloping belay-niche. An exposed spot.
3) 5a, 12m. Traverse rightwards out of the niche and pull up and then left into a corner below another overhang. Finish direct. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs, UK Extreme Corners.

Rock to Fakey 31/Jul Lead dnf

Thought i was ready for some e1... Found P1 quite pumpy, surprised this is 5a, got up to large possible cam in crack spot but, pumping out, down climbed all the way + rest. Up again, didn't have the large cam or large enough hex, but got a wc micro 3 in just below the big crack. Worried about that next section, looked awkward, tried the start, didn't feel right, downclimbed again but couldn't hold on near the bottom, slumped onto micro, it held. Tried again but again downclimbed again , will try again with bigger hex or cam. Needs 1 bigger than the dmm large blue hex / wc purple, (or a medium big cam, bigger than dmm dragon 4, so blue 5 or silver 6, or WC same colour but diff number = 3 blue or their 4. ) or you could probably sling the blue hex up at the top of the crack after u find the nerve to go for it. Need to do some pumpy training. IMO, p1 harder than / more pumpy to sort gear, than any of Last exit to Torquay. Curious to know how p2 + 3 will be, if 1 is only getting 5a.... have OS sport 6b, 6b+ too recently... bemused by the 5a ish ness of this p1...!

Strife 15/Jul AltLd O/S

Led p3. The traverse was "memorable"

Jimbob64 15/Jul AltLd

Led pitch 1 and 2 together.

with Simon
brian watson 24/Jun Lead O/S

Lead P1+ 2 massive belay faff, Mike finished up last pitch of gates of Eden

with Mike Hawkins
Steve Woollard 10/May AltLd
with Steve Thorpe
m.powell02 02/May AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Cool route! Plenty of good holds and exposure.

Hidden 02/May AltLd O/S
Adam Hill 15/Nov/16 2nd
with Pete
Stroppy 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Quality route, nice and sustained. Good job Alex - done in one

Alex the Alex 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Awesome! Lead in one big pitch which was fantastic. Dont know why its split.

with Ed, Rog
RKirke 28/Aug/16 2nd O/S
JackM92 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Nick Nixon
NickNixon 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Becky E
Luxulyan 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Abi
Stuckey 09/Aug/15 AltLd
Lee_Meaden 09/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
NickJH 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Andy Dunhill
alice fuller 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S

lead 1 and 2 together. Pete lead the top pitch. Excellent climb.

dbrooks 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

led p1 + 2 in one... Gideon finished up gates of eden

with gidmord
gidmord 06/Jun/15 AltLd dnf

Seconded first two pitches (Derwood lead as one). Pussed out leading the third pitch and finished up Gates of Eden.

with dbrooks
Hidden 27/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/May/15 AltLd O/S
richardashe 22/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead p1 and p2 in one. Matt last pitch three with a terrifying traverse of the belay.

cheeky 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 21/May/15 AltLd O/S

Ran the 1st 2 pitches together.

mattkemp70 ?/May/15 -
with Rich
kennythescot 10/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Need to finish off the 3rd pitch

with Luke Robinson
nickstephens 18/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
with Darcan
darcan 18/Jan/15 AltLd
with nick
Hidden ??/2015 -
JBO 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 13/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

first two pitches in a oner needed more quick draws for the top

with Tom Nichols
Felix Ottey 08/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Nice climb, I took first pitch (look out for loose rock!)

Martin Haworth 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Climbed it as a single pitch, fantastic route worth 3 stars.

with Andy
Andrew Sloan 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S

Martin led as 1 pitch, sustained.

ian d f 27/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Pete H
PaulTanton 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Did it in one pitch

with Bruce Woodley
Hidden 28/Jul/13 Lead
Mr Tickle 11/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Struggled on the moves in the groove and had to rest on the peg, but steep moves after are straight forward. Led p1 and P2

with Will
Motown 11/Jul/13 AltLd β

Luke lead pitch one and two and I lead the third - this was steep aand exposed but on great holds and good gear. Really pleased to get this done. Back to lead first pitches soon.

with Luke
Georgia H ?/Jul/13 2nd
leo-z-g 21/Jun/13 Lead dnf

Broke three bits of rock off. First a foot hold but held it. Then a hand hold which caused me to fall and my gear to rip more rock out resulting in a ground fall luckily only minor injuries thanks to my first bit of gear holding. First ever trad fall!!

gripped01 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch

with Jim Jarvis
Motown 13/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Only first pitch but better than last attempt! Next time

with Luke
Dave Rumney 01/Sep/12 Lead

Excellent. Should have done it in 1 pitch.

with Tanya Milner
Bristoldave 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Caroline
Hidden 19/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Marti999 21/Jan/12 2nd rpt
Ed Babs 21/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Marti
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd
Motown 26/Dec/11 Lead dnf


burto 19/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with hertha
Neil Adams 23/May/11 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 23/May/11 AltLd dog

Got attacked by nesting sea-gulls and took a rest on gear. Pesky flying rats!

with Burnsie
Hidden 23/May/11 AltLd O/S
M Bryan ?/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Dan Walker
James Mitchelmore 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
misterb 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S

worth a star

with wain
Hidden 30/Oct/09 Lead O/S
twright180 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 17/Apr/09 AltLd
with Alex Hughes
nick99 ??/2009 AltLd
with Thom
Justin T 12/Aug/08 AltLd

Led P3. Had previously done P1&2 but backed off P3.

with Rich
richardr 12/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Sustained route on quality rock. A touch butch in places! Possibly worth 3 stars.

Popkids 30/May/08 2nd O/S
with Kafoozalem
Steerpike 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Bruce
Hidden ?/Nov/07 2nd
mattyork2 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S

A steady route of great quality, with amazing exposure

Justin T 01/Jul/07 Lead dnf

Led P1&2 as one (first belay currently an occupied seagull's nest...) then retreated up Gates after a couple of attempts at figuring the route for P3 traverse when rain set in. Nice route - bit of a strenuous start.

with Wifey
Hidden 01/Jul/07 2nd dnf
AJH 22/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Crispin
climber sim ??/2007 -
Dave Searle 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with sim
leadmat ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Graham Fleury
Hidden 04/Jun/00 -
alan moore ??/2000 Lead


Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
colin milton 10/Jul/94 Lead
with eric milton and s blagdon
Simon cook ??/1994 -
Nick Biven ?/Sep/90 AltLd O/S

Thought it fairly serious at the time

Hidden 01/Apr/90 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/90 AltLd O/S
ecowaller ??/1990 -
Hammy 02/Oct/88 AltLd
with Colin Struthers
ukb & bmc shark 03/Jan/87 AltLd
with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo
clark alston ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S

Tremendous climb.

with Alan Pow
Hidden 10/Oct/84 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1976 -
with Chris Gibson
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 21
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set