Rockfax Description
A wild expedition up the curving left arete of the main corner. Start below the steep wall, right of a large red corner.
1) 5a, 12m. From some sandy red rock at the base of the crag, move up the right wall on good, but suspect holds to a wide crack, large cam, that ends at a large ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 16m. Climb the groove above and move up left to a rest. Climb up the steep left side of the arete and then step right to the arete. Pull into a large sloping belay-niche. An exposed spot.
3) 5a, 12m. Traverse rightwards out of the niche and pull up and then left into a corner below another overhang. Finish direct. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Daddyhole Project, West Country Climbs, UK Extreme Corners, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Jim blackford 10 Nov Lead β just p1 + 2 (together) since it was getting dark. P1 is pumpy, with some loose rock and hard for 5a; crux on p2 is reasonably bold. tried p1 first over 2 years ago. Would be e2 at Avon: almost as hard as ffoegs folly
just p1 + 2 (together) since it was getting dark. P1 is pumpy, with some loose rock and hard for 5a; crux on p2 is reasonably bold. tried p1 first over 2 years ago. Would be e2 at Avon: almost as hard as ffoegs folly
Hidden 19 Oct 2nd
Hidden 19 Oct Lead O/S
tjwalker 10 Aug AltLd O/S Fantastic climb - all 3 pitches very involving. Led P1 and P3. Found P1 very pumpy - downclimbed after placing the first two bits of gear and then raced through to the top of the pitch after a rest - the ledge was less juggy than I'd hoped! Clem led the crux pitch, really interesting, exciting climbing. The last pitch, turning the overhangs right then left was great too.
Fantastic climb - all 3 pitches very involving. Led P1 and P3. Found P1 very pumpy - downclimbed after placing the first two bits of gear and then raced through to the top of the pitch after a rest - the ledge was less juggy than I'd hoped! Clem led the crux pitch, really interesting, exciting climbing. The last pitch, turning the overhangs right then left was great too.
andy_pemberton 4 Jul Lead
with Steve Gibson
with Steve Gibson
Dominic Acland 3 Jul AltLd O/S
with ollie1
with ollie1
ollie1 3 Jul AltLd Took second pitch this time. Love this climb.
Took second pitch this time. Love this climb.
Will Mortimer 16 Jun AltLd O/S
Dexter JW 15 Jun AltLd O/S P1
P1
ollie1 30 May Lead O/S
Hidden ?? -
JendeHoxar 21 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 21 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
Whorlhill 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Small and weak 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Fakey Rocks 15 Sep, 2018 Lead dnf I've still got problems with p1 of 3! no-one else seems to struggle here...I think 5b here not 5a cos awkward n pumpy? Spent best part of 2 hrs going up + down placing other gear b4 finally getting onto holds to try place the BD 11 hex + large cam but, but neither seated well. Did have a dodgy rock 1 up left too, but gave in again as not yet made safe enough for me! Frustrating + left it feeling disappointed. Some minute progress made though! will be quicker putting the middle gear in well next time, think I was hanging on slightly better than last time, just hope I can get the hex + cam right too. Keen to get back on , but might be better off 2nding p1.. Not bothered about p1 ethics now, might even ab + place gear, or shunt + just headpoint p1... Get in touch if u need a partner to 2nd it ;)
I've still got problems with p1 of 3! no-one else seems to struggle here...I think 5b here not 5a cos awkward n pumpy? Spent best part of 2 hrs going up + down placing other gear b4 finally getting onto holds to try place the BD 11 hex + large cam but, but neither seated well. Did have a dodgy rock 1 up left too, but gave in again as not yet made safe enough for me! Frustrating + left it feeling disappointed. Some minute progress made though! will be quicker putting the middle gear in well next time, think I was hanging on slightly better than last time, just hope I can get the hex + cam right too. Keen to get back on , but might be better off 2nding p1.. Not bothered about p1 ethics now, might even ab + place gear, or shunt + just headpoint p1... Get in touch if u need a partner to 2nd it ;)
LDJ 18 Aug, 2018 AltLd Me P1&2 combined, Amy P3
with Tilt
Me P1&2 combined, Amy P3
with Tilt
Tilt 18 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with LDJ
with LDJ
Guy Arnold 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S First 2 pitches in one.
First 2 pitches in one.
Hidden 4 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Binder 4 Aug, 2018 2nd dog I tried leading P3 but fell off the move just around the arete from the belay and couldn't get it. Rather fiddly gear on most of the route.
with Max A
I tried leading P3 but fell off the move just around the arete from the belay and couldn't get it. Rather fiddly gear on most of the route.
with Max A
tonanf ?Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Pep
with Pep
Hidden 24 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Samuel Wainwright 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Got a bit lost on the last pitch so finished up Gates of Eden instead.
with ad111
Got a bit lost on the last pitch so finished up Gates of Eden instead.
with ad111
ad111 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S finished up gates of eden
finished up gates of eden
R0BJ0N 9 May, 2018 Lead O/S
steveprice.exmouth 9 May, 2018 2nd
with Rob Johnson
with Rob Johnson
robgixer 6 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Good route with good positions
Good route with good positions
CharleyAnn 6 May, 2018 AltLd
Fakey Rocks 31 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf P1 first wall quite pumpy, surprised this is 5a, got up to the big crack, where a fairly large cam is possible, or hex, but without it, pumping out, down climbed all the way + rest. Up again, got a wc stone 3 in just below the big crack? Just didn't feel right trying to move up, downclimbed several times again but couldn't hold on near the bottom, slumped onto micro, it held. Another go but downclimbed again! , will try again with bigger hex or cam. Needs BD no.11 hex or that size cam. Dmm blue hex too small but could work a bit higher if got nerve to go for it. Need to do some pumpy training. p1 more pumpy to sort gear than any of Last exit to Torquay. Bemused by the 5a ish ness of this p1...! New guide puts p1 + 2 together as 5b, but I think as 3 it might be 5b (not 5a), 5b, + 5a!
P1 first wall quite pumpy, surprised this is 5a, got up to the big crack, where a fairly large cam is possible, or hex, but without it, pumping out, down climbed all the way + rest. Up again, got a wc stone 3 in just below the big crack? Just didn't feel right trying to move up, downclimbed several times again but couldn't hold on near the bottom, slumped onto micro, it held. Another go but downclimbed again! , will try again with bigger hex or cam. Needs BD no.11 hex or that size cam. Dmm blue hex too small but could work a bit higher if got nerve to go for it. Need to do some pumpy training. p1 more pumpy to sort gear than any of Last exit to Torquay. Bemused by the 5a ish ness of this p1...! New guide puts p1 + 2 together as 5b, but I think as 3 it might be 5b (not 5a), 5b, + 5a!
Strife 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p3. The traverse was "memorable"
Led p3. The traverse was "memorable"
Jimbob64 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd Led pitch 1 and 2 together.
with Strife
Led pitch 1 and 2 together.
with Strife
brian watson 24 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Lead P1+ 2 massive belay faff, Mike finished up last pitch of gates of Eden
with Mike Hawkins
Lead P1+ 2 massive belay faff, Mike finished up last pitch of gates of Eden
with Mike Hawkins
Steve Woollard 10 May, 2017 AltLd
with Steve Thorpe
with Steve Thorpe
m.powell02 2 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead P2. Cool route! Plenty of good holds and exposure.
with twill
Lead P2. Cool route! Plenty of good holds and exposure.
with twill
Hidden 2 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Adam Hill 15 Nov, 2016 2nd
with Pete
with Pete
Stroppy 28 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S Quality route, nice and sustained. Good job Alex - done in one
Quality route, nice and sustained. Good job Alex - done in one
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
RKirke 28 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
JackM92 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Nick Nixon
with Nick Nixon
NickNixon 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 17 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Becky E
with Becky E
Luxulyan 15 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Abi
with Abi
Stuckey 9 Aug, 2015 AltLd
Lee_Meaden 9 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Stuckey
with Stuckey
NickJH 30 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Andy Dunhill
with Andy Dunhill
alice fuller 23 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S lead 1 and 2 together. Pete lead the top pitch. Excellent climb.
lead 1 and 2 together. Pete lead the top pitch. Excellent climb.
dbrooks 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S led p1 + 2 in one... Gideon finished up gates of eden
with gidmord
led p1 + 2 in one... Gideon finished up gates of eden
with gidmord
gidmord 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd dnf Seconded first two pitches (Derwood lead as one). Pussed out leading the third pitch and finished up Gates of Eden.
with dbrooks
Seconded first two pitches (Derwood lead as one). Pussed out leading the third pitch and finished up Gates of Eden.
with dbrooks
Hidden 27 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
richardashe 22 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead p1 and p2 in one. Matt last pitch three with a terrifying traverse of the belay.
Lead p1 and p2 in one. Matt last pitch three with a terrifying traverse of the belay.
cheeky 21 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Graham Westbrook 21 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Ran the 1st 2 pitches together.
with cheeky
Ran the 1st 2 pitches together.
with cheeky
mattkemp70 ?May, 2015 -
with Rich
with Rich
kennythescot 10 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Need to finish off the 3rd pitch
with Luke Robinson
Need to finish off the 3rd pitch
with Luke Robinson
nickstephens 18 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
with darcan
with darcan
darcan 18 Jan, 2015 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2015 -
JBO 19 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 13 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S first two pitches in a oner needed more quick draws for the top
with Tom Nichols
first two pitches in a oner needed more quick draws for the top
with Tom Nichols
Felix Ottey 8 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Nice climb, I took first pitch (look out for loose rock!)
Nice climb, I took first pitch (look out for loose rock!)
Martin Haworth 1 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Climbed it as a single pitch, fantastic route worth 3 stars.
Climbed it as a single pitch, fantastic route worth 3 stars.
Andrew Sloan 1 Sep, 2013 2nd O/S Martin led as 1 pitch, sustained.
Martin led as 1 pitch, sustained.
ian d f 27 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Pete H
with Pete H
Hidden 24 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 2013 Lead
Mr Tickle 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd dog Struggled on the moves in the groove and had to rest on the peg, but steep moves after are straight forward. Led p1 and P2
with Motown
Struggled on the moves in the groove and had to rest on the peg, but steep moves after are straight forward. Led p1 and P2
with Motown
Motown 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd β Luke lead pitch one and two and I lead the third - this was steep aand exposed but on great holds and good gear. Really pleased to get this done. Back to lead first pitches soon.
Luke lead pitch one and two and I lead the third - this was steep aand exposed but on great holds and good gear. Really pleased to get this done. Back to lead first pitches soon.
Georgia H ?Jul, 2013 2nd
leo-z-g 21 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf Broke three bits of rock off. First a foot hold but held it. Then a hand hold which caused me to fall and my gear to rip more rock out resulting in a ground fall luckily only minor injuries thanks to my first bit of gear holding. First ever trad fall!!
Broke three bits of rock off. First a foot hold but held it. Then a hand hold which caused me to fall and my gear to rip more rock out resulting in a ground fall luckily only minor injuries thanks to my first bit of gear holding. First ever trad fall!!
gripped01 16 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch
with Jim Jarvis
Led 1st pitch
with Jim Jarvis
Motown 13 Oct, 2012 Lead dnf Only first pitch but better than last attempt! Next time
Only first pitch but better than last attempt! Next time
Dave Rumney 1 Sep, 2012 Lead Excellent. Should have done it in 1 pitch.
with Tanya Milner
Excellent. Should have done it in 1 pitch.
with Tanya Milner
Bristoldave 2 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Caroline
with Caroline
Hidden 19 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
Marti999 21 Jan, 2012 2nd rpt
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 21 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd
Motown 26 Dec, 2011 Lead dnf Spanked.
Spanked.
burto 19 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S
with hertha
with hertha
Neil Adams 23 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 23 May, 2011 AltLd dog Got attacked by nesting sea-gulls and took a rest on gear. Pesky flying rats!
with Burnsie
Got attacked by nesting sea-gulls and took a rest on gear. Pesky flying rats!
with Burnsie
Hidden 23 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
M Bryan ?Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Dan Walker
with Dan Walker
James Mitchelmore 20 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
twright180 11 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 17 Apr, 2009 AltLd
with Alex Hughes
with Alex Hughes
nick99 ??, 2009 AltLd
with Thom
with Thom
Justin T 12 Aug, 2008 AltLd Led P3. Had previously done P1&2 but backed off P3.
Led P3. Had previously done P1&2 but backed off P3.
richardr 12 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S Sustained route on quality rock. A touch butch in places! Possibly worth 3 stars.
Sustained route on quality rock. A touch butch in places! Possibly worth 3 stars.
Popkids 30 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with Kafoozalem
with Kafoozalem
Steerpike 10 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
with Bruce
with Bruce
bruce ?Nov, 2007 2nd
with Ben Hall
with Ben Hall
mattyork2 1 Aug, 2007 Lead O/S A steady route of great quality, with amazing exposure
with alaan
A steady route of great quality, with amazing exposure
with alaan
Justin T 1 Jul, 2007 Lead dnf Led P1&2 as one (first belay currently an occupied seagull's nest...) then retreated up Gates after a couple of attempts at figuring the route for P3 traverse when rain set in. Nice route - bit of a strenuous start.
with TeaGirl
Led P1&2 as one (first belay currently an occupied seagull's nest...) then retreated up Gates after a couple of attempts at figuring the route for P3 traverse when rain set in. Nice route - bit of a strenuous start.
with TeaGirl
Hidden 1 Jul, 2007 2nd dnf
AJH 22 Apr, 2007 2nd O/S
with Crispin
with Crispin
climber sim ??, 2007 -
Dave Searle 18 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
with sim
with sim
leadmat ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with Graham Fleury
with Graham Fleury
Hidden 4 Jun, 2000 -
alan moore ??, 2000 Lead Brilliant.
Brilliant.
Marti999 ??, 2000 Lead
TrevorCruse 11 Oct, 1998 2nd O/S
with Roger
with Roger
colin milton 10 Jul, 1994 Lead
with eric milton and s blagdon
with eric milton and s blagdon
Simon cook ??, 1994 -
Nick Biven ?Sep, 1990 AltLd O/S Thought it fairly serious at the time
Thought it fairly serious at the time
Hidden 1 Apr, 1990 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Mar, 1990 AltLd O/S
ecowaller ??, 1990 -
Hammy 2 Oct, 1988 AltLd
with Colin Struthers
with Colin Struthers
UKB Shark 3 Jan, 1987 AltLd
with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo
with Mark Nicholson aka Bongo
Hidden ?Aug, 1986 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Oct, 1984 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??, 1976 -
with Chris Gibson
with Chris Gibson
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 24
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set