Rockfax Description
The groove in the left-hand arete of the Main Face gives a route of great quality. Start at a wide crack in huge blocks below the arete. Climb to a ledge on top of the blocks beneath the groove in the arete (possible belay). Follow the groove to a move right at its top and a final pull on slopers. Abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Superb crack and corner climbing, up the side of the arête. A poorer second pitch. Start from the top of the large block.
1) 4c. Climb the corner, moving right near the top, to reach a spacious ledge.1) 4c. Climb the corner, moving right near the top, to reach a spacious ledge.
A variation is: Instead of the move right, continue up direct. HVS 5a. (1969)
Most abseil off the tree (A bolt abseil point would save wear and tear on the
poor tree; would anyone really object?), but you can go on to:
2) 4a. Climb rightwards, and up, through vegetation until above the corner of Central Groove (Pg 13). Continue right, across a ramp, until below a slabby corner. Finish up this corner.
FA. T.Patey 1957.
Ticklists
Kernow , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , West Country Climbs , UK Classic Corners , CUMC Ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , Dartmoor Stars: Diff - HVS , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Atlantic Coast , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Cream first! , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist , Llidberis South West Tour
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LoneDeranger | 27 Jul |
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βeta: I heard that the medium block near the tree had been used for abseil with tat left in situ. It’s clearly shifted an inch. This is a deathwish. It possibly need trundling | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I heard that the medium block near the tree had been used for abseil with tat left in situ. It’s clearly shifted an inch. This is a deathwish. It possibly need trundling |
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| HC13 | 13 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: Great route, fantastic position. Anchor at the top feels suspect, about half tree trunk is rotten and the static rope backing it up on the choke stone is green and creaky. Backed up the mallion onto a root. A bolted anchor seems pragmatic... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route, fantastic position. Anchor at the top feels suspect, about half tree trunk is rotten and the static rope backing it up on the choke stone is green and creaky. Backed up the mallion onto a root. A bolted anchor seems pragmatic... |
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| Phil79 | 18 Jun, 2024 |
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βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind. Static checked June 2024, looking a bit green and stiff, probably needs replacing soon.... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind. Static checked June 2024, looking a bit green and stiff, probably needs replacing soon.... |
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| edwardford | 12 Dec, 2022 |
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βeta: The tree is beat up, but still feels ok, and there were some backup chockstones slotted to the rock on the right backing it up that seemed ok. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The tree is beat up, but still feels ok, and there were some backup chockstones slotted to the rock on the right backing it up that seemed ok. |
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| 343940 | 18 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Agreed on the bolt. It's only a matter of time before the tree breaks and someone is hurt......or worse | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agreed on the bolt. It's only a matter of time before the tree breaks and someone is hurt......or worse |
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| NCrossingham | 16 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: The large block by the tree at the top was feeling a bit loose | βeta? | |
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βeta: The large block by the tree at the top was feeling a bit loose |
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| harrypickin | 3 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Good route however starting to get rather polished. More polished then the granite elsewhere. Good protection though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good route however starting to get rather polished. More polished then the granite elsewhere. Good protection though. |
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| Andre Clarke | 16 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable climbing well protected | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very enjoyable climbing well protected |
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| John Cuthbert | 27 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Really a quite remarkable route of high quality, good protection (except for the start), and thought provocation... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Really a quite remarkable route of high quality, good protection (except for the start), and thought provocation... |
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| Albie | 4 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: A 'must do' climb for any VS climber. Quality. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A 'must do' climb for any VS climber. Quality. |
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| victim of mathematics | 8 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Really, really, really good. I like bridging a lot. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really, really, really good. I like bridging a lot. |
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| tom r | 5 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: good well protected route | βeta? | |
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βeta: good well protected route |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Dewerstone
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Exmoor Coast Traverse (full version)
Grade: VS ***
(The Exmoor Coast Traverse)