The groove in the left-hand arete of the Main Face gives a route of great quality. Start at a wide crack in huge blocks below the arete. Climb to a ledge on top of the blocks beneath the groove in the arete (possible belay). Follow the groove to a move right at its top and a final pull on slopers. Abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Superb crack and corner climbing, up the side of the arête. A poorer second pitch. Start from the top of the large block.
1) 4c. Climb the corner, moving right near the top, to reach a spacious ledge.1) 4c. Climb the corner, moving right near the top, to reach a spacious ledge.
A variation is: Instead of the move right, continue up direct. HVS 5a. (1969)
Most abseil off the tree (A bolt abseil point would save wear and tear on the
poor tree; would anyone really object?), but you can go on to:
2) 4a. Climb rightwards, and up, through vegetation until above the corner of Central Groove (Pg 13). Continue right, across a ramp, until below a slabby corner. Finish up this corner.
FA. T.Patey 1957.
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