UKC

Rockfax Description
The groove in the left-hand arete of the Main Face gives a route of great quality. Start at a wide crack in huge blocks below the arete. Climb to a ledge on top of the blocks beneath the groove in the arete (possible belay). Follow the groove to a move right at its top and a final pull on slopers. Abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Superb crack and corner climbing, up the side of the arĂȘte. A poorer second pitch. Start from the top of the large block.
1) 4c. Climb the corner, moving right near the top, to reach a spacious ledge.1) 4c. Climb the corner, moving right near the top, to reach a spacious ledge.
A variation is: Instead of the move right, continue up direct. HVS 5a. (1969)
Most abseil off the tree (A bolt abseil point would save wear and tear on the
poor tree; would anyone really object?), but you can go on to:
2) 4a. Climb rightwards, and up, through vegetation until above the corner of Central Groove (Pg 13). Continue right, across a ramp, until below a slabby corner. Finish up this corner.

FA. T.Patey 1957.

Ticklists

Kernow , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , West Country Climbs , UK Classic Corners , CUMC Ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Cream first!

Feedback

User Date Notes
343940 18 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Agreed on the bolt. It's only a matter of time before the tree breaks and someone is hurt......or worse
βeta?
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βeta: Agreed on the bolt. It's only a matter of time before the tree breaks and someone is hurt......or worse
Noah Crossingham 16 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The large block by the tree at the top was feeling a bit loose
βeta?
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βeta: The large block by the tree at the top was feeling a bit loose
harrypickin 3 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Good route however starting to get rather polished. More polished then the granite elsewhere. Good protection though.
βeta?
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βeta: Good route however starting to get rather polished. More polished then the granite elsewhere. Good protection though.
Phil79 26 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind.
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βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind.
Andre Clarke 16 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable climbing well protected
βeta?
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βeta: Very enjoyable climbing well protected
John Cuthbert 27 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Really a quite remarkable route of high quality, good protection (except for the start), and thought provocation...
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βeta: Really a quite remarkable route of high quality, good protection (except for the start), and thought provocation...
Albie 4 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A 'must do' climb for any VS climber. Quality.
βeta?
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βeta: A 'must do' climb for any VS climber. Quality.
victim of mathematics 8 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Really, really, really good. I like bridging a lot.
βeta?
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βeta: Really, really, really good. I like bridging a lot.
tom r 5 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: good well protected route
βeta?
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βeta: good well protected route

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for The Dewerstone

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 185
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 171
Votes cast 178
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Suspension Flake

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Hound Tor)

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