Rockfax Description
The groove in the left-hand arete of the Main Face gives a route of great quality. Start at a wide crack in huge blocks below the arete. Climb to a ledge on top of the blocks beneath the groove in the arete (possible belay). Follow the groove to a move right at its top and a final pull on slopers. Abseil off. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Superb crack and corner climbing, up the side of the arĂȘte. A poorer second pitch. Start from the top of the large block.
1) 4c. Climb the corner, moving right near the top, to reach a spacious ledge.1) 4c. Climb the corner, moving right near the top, to reach a spacious ledge.
A variation is: Instead of the move right, continue up direct. HVS 5a. (1969)
Most abseil off the tree (A bolt abseil point would save wear and tear on the
poor tree; would anyone really object?), but you can go on to:
2) 4a. Climb rightwards, and up, through vegetation until above the corner of Central Groove (Pg 13). Continue right, across a ramp, until below a slabby corner. Finish up this corner.
FA. T.Patey 1957.
Kernow , 100 More Classic British VS Climbs , West Country Climbs , UK Classic Corners , CUMC Ticklist , South West VDiff-HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , South West Classic VS's , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS , Cream first! , Meg'n'Liz's Dewerstone slicklist , Llidberis South West Tour
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
edwardford | 12 Dec, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The tree is beat up, but still feels ok, and there were some backup chockstones slotted to the rock on the right backing it up that seemed ok. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The tree is beat up, but still feels ok, and there were some backup chockstones slotted to the rock on the right backing it up that seemed ok. |
||||
343940 | 18 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Agreed on the bolt. It's only a matter of time before the tree breaks and someone is hurt......or worse | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Agreed on the bolt. It's only a matter of time before the tree breaks and someone is hurt......or worse |
||||
NCrossingham | 16 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The large block by the tree at the top was feeling a bit loose | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The large block by the tree at the top was feeling a bit loose |
||||
harrypickin | 3 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route however starting to get rather polished. More polished then the granite elsewhere. Good protection though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good route however starting to get rather polished. More polished then the granite elsewhere. Good protection though. |
||||
Phil79 | 26 Apr, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Rotten abseil tat replaced with static rope and maillon April 2022. Secured around (suspect) tree and backed up on pebble chocks placed in crack behind. |
||||
Andre Clarke | 16 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable climbing well protected | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable climbing well protected |
||||
John Cuthbert | 27 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really a quite remarkable route of high quality, good protection (except for the start), and thought provocation... | ||
Show beta
βeta: Really a quite remarkable route of high quality, good protection (except for the start), and thought provocation... |
||||
Albie | 4 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: A 'must do' climb for any VS climber. Quality. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: A 'must do' climb for any VS climber. Quality. |
||||
victim of mathematics | 8 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really, really, really good. I like bridging a lot. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Really, really, really good. I like bridging a lot. |
||||
tom r | 5 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: good well protected route | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: good well protected route |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)