UKC

Restricted Access

The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A spectacular pitch taking on the hold-plastered sheer right wall of Central Groove, Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and bridge out right onto a hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang above and pull through onto the vertical wall. Ascend direct on positive holds to the block belay at the top of pitch one of Central Groove.
2) 4b, 20m. Pitch 2 of Central Groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) E1 5b+. At the point where you step out onto the slab for Simitar, climb direct to the roof, via a thin crack. After the move round the roof (as for Scimitar), traverse right, to the arête. Climb this arête, passing pegs on the main face.
Bold, for its grade.
The roof, connecting the start and the arête, has yet to be climbed direct...

FA. P.Littlejohn 1968.

Ticklists

Kernow , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 25 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Current description above is completely different to that of current Dartmoor guide in which the route climbs directly not stepping onto the arete. Scimitar Variations as per rockfax is the same route under a different name but with the excellent roof finish dismissed in the CC guide
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Current description above is completely different to that of current Dartmoor guide in which the route climbs directly not stepping onto the arete. Scimitar Variations as per rockfax is the same route under a different name but with the excellent roof finish dismissed in the CC guide

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Guidebooks for The Dewerstone

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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 24
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Spider

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)

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