Restricted Access
The National Trust (who own the Dewerstone and surrounding land) are happy to allow climbing access but ask that abseil descent from trees is not used to prevent damage to the trees.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 21 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Kestrels are nesting on Upper Raven Buttress - it is worth avoiding these rarely visited climbs while the birds are nesting and it is likely that the young will have fledged by the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A spectacular pitch taking on the hold-plastered sheer right wall of Central Groove, Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and bridge out right onto a hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang above and pull through onto the vertical wall. Ascend direct on positive holds to the block belay at the top of pitch one of Central Groove.
2) 4b, 20m. Pitch 2 of Central Groove. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1) E1 5b+. At the point where you step out onto the slab for Simitar, climb direct to the roof, via a thin crack. After the move round the roof (as for Scimitar), traverse right, to the arête. Climb this arête, passing pegs on the main face.
Bold, for its grade.
The roof, connecting the start and the arête, has yet to be climbed direct...
FA. P.Littlejohn 1968.
Ticklists
Kernow , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graeme Hammond | 25 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Current description above is completely different to that of current Dartmoor guide in which the route climbs directly not stepping onto the arete. Scimitar Variations as per rockfax is the same route under a different name but with the excellent roof finish dismissed in the CC guide | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Current description above is completely different to that of current Dartmoor guide in which the route climbs directly not stepping onto the arete. Scimitar Variations as per rockfax is the same route under a different name but with the excellent roof finish dismissed in the CC guide |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Dewerstone
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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The Spider
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Chudleigh Rocks - South Face)