UKC Logbook - 'Scimitar Direct'

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A spectacular pitch taking on the hold-plastered sheer right wall of Central Groove, Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and bridge out right onto a hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang above and pull through onto the vertical wall. Ascend direct on positive holds to the block belay at the top of pitch one of Central Groove.
2) 4b, 20m. Pitch 2 of Central Groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) E1 5b+. At the point where you step out onto the slab for Simitar, climb direct to the roof, via a thin crack. After the move round the roof (as for Scimitar), traverse right, to the arête. Climb this arête, passing pegs on the main face.
Bold, for its grade.
The roof, connecting the start and the arête, has yet to be climbed direct...

FA. P.Littlejohn 1968.

Ticklists

Kernow , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad

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User	Date		Notes
Graeme Hammond	25 May, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Current description above is completely different to that of current Dartmoor guide in which the route climbs directly not stepping onto the arete. Scimitar Variations as per rockfax is the same route under a different name but with the excellent roof finish dismissed in the CC guide	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Current description above is completely different to that of current Dartmoor guide in which the route climbs directly not stepping onto the arete. Scimitar Variations as per rockfax is the same route under a different name but with the excellent roof finish dismissed in the CC guide