UKC

48m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A spectacular pitch taking on the hold-plastered sheer right wall of Central Groove, Start as for Central Groove.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb up the initial wall of Central Groove and bridge out right onto a hanging slab. Immediately climb direct to the left end of the overhang above and pull through onto the vertical wall. Ascend direct on positive holds to the block belay at the top of pitch one of Central Groove.
2) 4b, 20m. Pitch 2 of Central Groove. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) E1 5b+. At the point where you step out onto the slab for Simitar, climb direct to the roof, via a thin crack. After the move round the roof (as for Scimitar), climb direct boldly up the wall on good holds to the belay on Central Groove. Pegs mentioned in old descriptions no longer exist. Bold, for its grade.
Variation pitch 2 through the roof above should not be missed despite the dismissal in the current CC Dartmoor guide, also known as 'Scimitar Variations'.

FA. P.Littlejohn 1968.

Ticklists

Kernow , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Dartmoor UKC *** Trad , Definitive *** Dartmoor Trad , Routes for MCI

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User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 25 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Current description above is completely different to that of current Dartmoor guide in which the route climbs directly not stepping onto the arete. Scimitar Variations as per rockfax is the same route under a different name but with the excellent roof finish dismissed in the CC guide
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Current description above is completely different to that of current Dartmoor guide in which the route climbs directly not stepping onto the arete. Scimitar Variations as per rockfax is the same route under a different name but with the excellent roof finish dismissed in the CC guide

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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Lundy)

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