July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
A poor man's Quarryman - and the rock isn't good. Locate a small boulder, in a recessed corner, just left of The Abstraction Ladder. At the edge of the terrace directly below this are two belay bolts invisible from above. Abseil from the block and bolts down the V-groove to a two-bolt stance - you can see the bolt runners from the top belay bolts before you go down. Climb back up the groove by bridging and awkward back-and-footing. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Just L of The Abstraction Ladder on The Balcony a recessed corner in the back wall contains a small boulder embedded in the ground (see photo). At the edge of the terrace directly below this are two belay bolts invisible from above. Abseil from the block and/or bolts down the V groove below to a lower 2 bolt stance (you can see the bolt runners from the top belay bolts before you go down). Climb back up the groove by bridging and awkward backing and footing. The rock is often poor in the back of the groove but further out it is better. The climbing is unusual and interesting (another "poor man's Quarryman"?) but the route won't be everybody's cup of tea. Would deserve a star if the rock was better. Would get 2 for awkwardness if that was a factor.
H. Walmsley, R. Davies 23/Jun/2016.
All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 6b & 6b+
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Grade: 6b ***
(Twll Mawr)