UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

18m.

Rockfax Description
The rounded rib on the left wall of the cutting as you approach. It is found opposite where you drop down into the cutting. Climb up past the only remaining bolt. There were three variation finishes, but the bolts are missing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
NOTE: Not well described in recent guidebooks. They say that it lies in the Heaven Walls cutting but actually, rather than being in the cutting itself, it is to your L on the uphill side of the fairly broad level as you approach the cutting from the ruined building above the Yellow Wall incline. This is the so-far un-named level that the Heaven Walls/Lost World approach abseil goes down from. For convenience I have suggested to call the part below The Balcony The Verandah . I guess this name could apply to the whole level? Also, the route is on a barrel-shaped slab rather than a rib. Finally three bolts are mentioned but the 1990 (Nick Harms) guide noted that 2 had been stolen. At present only one bolt is visible from below.

Three versions!
The Mere Giggle (E1 5b) - Up and right from the 2nd bolt
The Sniggering Smear (E1 5c) - Left from the second bolt
The Biggest Joke (E1 6a) - Straight up!

M Raine, S Howe 15/Oct/1986.

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Route of Interest
Vember

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))

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