UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
The rounded rib on the left wall of the cutting as you approach. It is found opposite where you drop down into the cutting. Climb up past the only remaining bolt. There were three variation finishes, but the bolts are missing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
NOTE: Not well described in recent guidebooks. They say that it lies in the Heaven Walls cutting but actually, rather than being in the cutting itself, it is to your L on the uphill side of the fairly broad level as you approach the cutting from the ruined building above the Yellow Wall incline. This is the so-far un-named level that the Heaven Walls/Lost World approach abseil goes down from. For convenience I have suggested to call the part below The Balcony The Verandah . I guess this name could apply to the whole level? Also, the route is on a barrel-shaped slab rather than a rib. Finally three bolts are mentioned but the 1990 (Nick Harms) guide noted that 2 had been stolen. At present only one bolt is visible from below.

Three versions!
The Mere Giggle (E1 5b) - Up and right from the 2nd bolt
The Sniggering Smear (E1 5c) - Left from the second bolt
The Biggest Joke (E1 6a) - Straight up!

M Raine, S Howe 15/Oct/1986.

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Route of Interest
Falcon

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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