July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock) in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area.
The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.
BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.
Reason: Nesting Birds
A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.
Rockfax Description
The tripartite crack system on the face to the left of Pain Killer. Start 2m left of the corner next to a large block. Climb leftwards on hand jams to reach good holds and the base of the three large cracks. Ascend the cracks using a variety of jamming techniques to a lower-off. Large cams needed. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The tripartite crack system on the face to the left of Pain Killer. Start 2m left of the corner next to a large block, climb leftwards on hand jams to reach good holds and the base of the three large cracks. Ascend the cracks using a variety of jamming techniques to a lower off. NB - many cams necessary including larger sizes (BD 4,5&6),
Enjoy!
James Taylor & Andrew Cherry 20/Jul/2014.
AMC Uni Ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tom_Shill | 31 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Starts in the corner, not 2m left. The cracks themselves are about 2m out. Cams are more or less useless - the sides are worktop-smooth and covered in dusty lichen. Placed a no.6 and pulled it straight out with a gentle tug! Take hexes, plus small wires for the horizontals instead. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Starts in the corner, not 2m left. The cracks themselves are about 2m out. Cams are more or less useless - the sides are worktop-smooth and covered in dusty lichen. Placed a no.6 and pulled it straight out with a gentle tug! Take hexes, plus small wires for the horizontals instead. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dinas Mot)