Access Banned
Easy access but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 15 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Due to nesting birds, the ban for this area has been extended. Please visit NRW page for more information Natural Resources Wales / Exclusion zone to prevent damage at protected site
20m.
E5 5c/6a. A good climb, softer/more brittle than your standard route on Main Cliff, fun and steep climbing, never desperate but sustained. Well protected.
Climb large flakes from a ledge on the left side of the cave. The flakes lead to steeper ground. Follow jugs rightward on the lip of the cave until it’s possible to get stood up. The final headwall leads back left to finish. Phew!
Climb large flakes from a ledge on the left side of the cave. The flakes lead to steeper ground. Follow jugs rightward on the lip of the cave until it’s possible to get stood up. The final headwall leads back left to finish. Phew!
George Smith.
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Route of Interest
Hunger
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)