Access Banned
Easy access but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 15 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Due to nesting birds, the ban for this area has been extended. Please visit NRW page for more information Natural Resources Wales / Exclusion zone to prevent damage at protected site
30m.
This is a bit of an eliminate but once started feels like a natural line and is essentially a direct on on One Step Beyond. Start as for One Step Beyond and move down and left to gain a prominent spike. The head directly up the steep wall with your left hand on jugs. After about 6m you can gain the easier groove on the left and place some gear. If you carry straight up here it is E2 but the brave will swing back right and take the next steep section to gain the top of One Step Beyond at the end of its traverse.
S.Lake, M.Reeves 29/Jul/2017.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andy Reeve | 14 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: I assume where the description currently states "down and left to a spike", it means "down and right...", otherwise you'd just be back at the stance | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I assume where the description currently states "down and left to a spike", it means "down and right...", otherwise you'd just be back at the stance |
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Route of Interest
20,000 Leagues Under the Sea
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)