Access Banned
Easy access but tidal. Lots of conservation interest including nesting birds and a very rare flower - the South Stack Spathulate Fleawort - a nationally rare endemic species that grows along the cliff edges. No gardening or placing of any additional belay stakes allowed anywhere on this coastline.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 15 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Due to nesting birds, the ban for this area has been extended. Please visit NRW page for more information Natural Resources Wales / Exclusion zone to prevent damage at protected site
32m.
This route was E3, but the peg have deteriorated bumping the grade up.
A wandering route, the line based around the striking arete/prow of the buttress.
Abseil down broken ground from the promontory opposite (stakes), then boulder hop to the route at low tide. A short groove leads to a small stance (possible belay), step left and turn the overhang on the left leading to an easing. Turn the next bulge directly to another easing, moving slightly left again to keep with the arete. Another steep pull leads to a cramped stance where it’s possible to shuffle left to slabbier ground. Old peg out left. Arrange what gear you can find (peg missing), then make undercut moves on smears to reach a hold on the arete and then slabbier ground again. Climb easily but somewhat boldly to the top. Stake and turf anchors available, but minimal.
A wandering route, the line based around the striking arete/prow of the buttress.
Abseil down broken ground from the promontory opposite (stakes), then boulder hop to the route at low tide. A short groove leads to a small stance (possible belay), step left and turn the overhang on the left leading to an easing. Turn the next bulge directly to another easing, moving slightly left again to keep with the arete. Another steep pull leads to a cramped stance where it’s possible to shuffle left to slabbier ground. Old peg out left. Arrange what gear you can find (peg missing), then make undercut moves on smears to reach a hold on the arete and then slabbier ground again. Climb easily but somewhat boldly to the top. Stake and turf anchors available, but minimal.
C Parkin & A George.
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Route of Interest
Graduation Ceremony
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)