UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
Take the previous climb to the large ledges then head right passing an awkward scoop to reach the exposed arete and climb this boldly to a finish up a crack on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Ian Carr 1987.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Andy Stewart2 22 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The hardest part is probably getting to the belay ledge on Wedgewood Crack via the vicious HVS direct start and tweaking my back in the process....should have warmed up! The moves right to the arete are airy but protectable. I abbed down, brushed the scrittly green holds and checked the wire placements. On sight you would be hard pushed to place protection, since you're either placing it blind from the side or at full stretch from below. To make matters worse the best placement takes a size 2 1/2 wire and as luck would have it I had a between sizes stopper. A ball nut may help if you have one? The breaks above take cams #4, 2 and 1, with great moves up the left side of the arete. Where the original route swings left to a now vegetated and uninviting green crack, keep to the arete with glorious airy moves to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The hardest part is probably getting to the belay ledge on Wedgewood Crack via the vicious HVS direct start and tweaking my back in the process....should have warmed up! The moves right to the arete are airy but protectable. I abbed down, brushed the scrittly green holds and checked the wire placements. On sight you would be hard pushed to place protection, since you're either placing it blind from the side or at full stretch from below. To make matters worse the best placement takes a size 2 1/2 wire and as luck would have it I had a between sizes stopper. A ball nut may help if you have one? The breaks above take cams #4, 2 and 1, with great moves up the left side of the arete. Where the original route swings left to a now vegetated and uninviting green crack, keep to the arete with glorious airy moves to the top.

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Route of Interest
Bob Hope

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Dovestones Quarry)

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