UKC

18m. The prominent groove in the right wall of the buttress is relatively short but gives exciting, steep, unusual and sustained climbing although the rock is a little suspect on the bulging upper rib. Start below the groove at the foot of a right-slanting ramp. Climb the ramp, pull through the overlap and climb the groove past a jug to a blunt spike on the left. Gain a bridging position on the spike top and big handholds on the upper edges of the block at the base of the bulging rib above. A good jug above and layaways on the right allow a stretch up and left to a spiky jug on Dead Man’s Fist. Exit as for that.

Harold Walmsley, Chris Calow 19/May/2025.

Feedback

User Date Notes
harold walmsley 20 May Show βeta
βeta: Protection beta: Protection over the top bulge is hard to see. When you get both hands to the good holds on top of the block with your left hand in the crack on its left side, a 00 (Small Blue) Dragon cam goes in the crack above your left hand.
Show beta
βeta: Protection beta: Protection over the top bulge is hard to see. When you get both hands to the good holds on top of the block with your left hand in the crack on its left side, a 00 (Small Blue) Dragon cam goes in the crack above your left hand.

Logged Ascents

1 users have logged this

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Route of Interest
The Troach

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))

Loading Notifications...