UKC

Climbs 71
Rocktype Greywacke
Altitude Tidal
Faces E

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On The Souter after a day of rain dodging! © MightyStew

Crag features

The area around the Souter sea-stack gives some excellent sea-cliff climbing. A great venue for the mid extreme leader!

Must Dos :

Skate Bush, E7, 6b, Squid Vicious E5 6a, Puffer Daddy, E3 6a, Fast Bleeder E3 6a, Take It To The Limpets E3 5c, Wallnut E3 5c, Plain sailing E1 5b, The Souter, Ordinary Route HVS 5a, Second Sight HVS 5a.

Contrary to the guide, The Wedge is non-tidal, Limpet Fin is very tidal, Crimpanzie Fin has flaky rock and getting from the half-height ledge to the peg anchor (now backed up) is quite tedious.

Approach notes

Park and approach from Dowlaw farm. 
Take the well signposted St Abbs coastal path on the right hand side of the farm to a 3 way junction. The souter is signed from here. Follow a vague path downhill through 2 gates. A final stile leads to a well worn path down steep grass to the inlet.


Tidal

Update this Crag
Last updated on 24/Aug/2021

Access Advice

The SMC 1994 guide has a guideline April-July 1st bird ban. No more up to date info. The farmer at Dowlaw farm is aware of this.
Take care during nesting season not to disturb any wild birds. It's an offence to do so. For more info : http://www.mcofs.org.uk/assets/nesting%20birds%20&%20climbers%20with%20photos%20embedded%200410.pdf

called. Ain't done it before. Very good, but hard for the grade.
DannyC - 07/Jul/14
Good man, thanks Stu. Climbed there yesterday and there were no birds nesting on routes that we did, although loads on the chossier unclimbed bits (Including on the walk-in. Be careful for plover nests). Did the E1 on the Stiff Bunnies I think it
DannyC - 07/Jul/14
Thanks Danny, I too can't find any reference, so I'm guessing it's historical. I've changed the advice and copied in a link to the MCofS's guidance on the subject which is worth a read. Cheers
apollo18 - 05/Jul/14
Is the bird ban info here up to date? I can't see any mention of it currently on the MCofS page: http://www.mcofs.org.uk/nesting-bird-warning.asp
DannyC - 04/Jul/14
Seal of Approval is a great route and better than the ordinary route on the Souter.
Drexciyan - 12/Jun/13
We didn't fancy the simul abseil(my mate likes his pies) so there's a wee bit of fresh tat up there again and a small wire donated too.
graeme gatherer - 24/Sep/10
the top has been cleaned of tat. you need to abseil off both sides.
KeithAlexander - 13/Sep/10
lol dam right, its been cleaned up now as has my helmet
Rob - 11/Apr/06
If climbing Squid Vicious on the Souter, some system to keep the belayer away from under the leader would be highly recommended as life threatening blocks are readily and unpredictably pulled off the first of the two overlaps at about half height.
henwardian - 20/Sep/05
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Climbs at this crag

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