20m.
Tackles the impressive overhanging groove at the back of the bay. Very good groove climbing in the upper two thirds that is adequately protected with a keen eye and a double set of cams micro to #0.4 C4.
Starting at a short chimney, climb easily with care to the small roof. Arrange gear and bust a move up and right into the groove proper. Groove on up until level with the final section – crucial #2 C4/s in a perfect but blind diagonal slot-crack out left, just below the fork in the crack. Continue direct with excitement to the top.
Probably some permutation of E4/5 6a/b.
For belay: Good rock gear available ~10m back and right from topout. To align this with the route it's a good idea to equalise with either the fence (additional rope required) or a stake (not in-situ).
Starting at a short chimney, climb easily with care to the small roof. Arrange gear and bust a move up and right into the groove proper. Groove on up until level with the final section – crucial #2 C4/s in a perfect but blind diagonal slot-crack out left, just below the fork in the crack. Continue direct with excitement to the top.
Probably some permutation of E4/5 6a/b.
For belay: Good rock gear available ~10m back and right from topout. To align this with the route it's a good idea to equalise with either the fence (additional rope required) or a stake (not in-situ).
Adam Russell, Lia Guest 23/Jun/2021.
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Route of Interest
Squid Vicious
Grade: E5 6a ***
(The Souter (Fastcastle))