Climbs 48
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 211m a.s.l
Faces S
Crag features
This series of sport crags has been getting developed since 2021 and has become a great destination for those operating mostly in the mid-6's to mid-7's range. The crags offer a wide variety of routes and climbing styles, mostly south-facing with superb views over Loch Long / Loch Goil and the Clyde beyond. On clear winter days, even with a strong northerly wind, it's an almost unsurpassed destination. Due to the overall high quality of the clmbing here, the decision has been made not to give any star ratings to specific routes. The number of quickdraws and type of lower-offs are noted on the start of each route description here. So '7xQD + 2 TLO' means the route has 7 bolts, then a further 2 'thread' lower-offs. The lower-offs are currently being upgraded from double rings on a hanger to heavy-duty snapgates on maillons, which are noted as 'SLO'.
Approach notes
From Arrochar, head west on the A83 along the side of the loch for a couple of miles and as you begin to rise uphill towards the start of the Rest and be Thankful, turn left into the Ardgartan Visitor Centre. Cross the bridge and turn left up the rough but surfaced switchback road for 2 miles / 8 minutes, till the trees open out and you arrive at the Coilessan car park. From here take an excellent, bikeable forestry track - "The Duke's Path" - for about 8-9k, eventually passing Corran Lochan on your right. Stay on the main track and not far past the lochan, the descent to the tip of the peninsula begins. Go round a right-hand hairpin with a levelled hardcore area on your left and continue to the very end of the track, the final 300-400m of which is unsurfaced and becomes no more than a rough 4x4 path. Proceed through the obvious gap in the trees from where the main 'Upstairs' crag is immediately visible.
Restricted Access
3rd May 2024:
Voluntary climbing restriction: Birds with special legal protection are nesting at this location and climbing is likely to disturb them. This is a criminal offence. In order to protect the rare nesting birds and to avoid breaking the law, a voluntary access restriction has been agreed for both tiers of the outcrop, ie. all of Upstairs and Downstairs sectors. This will last from 1st April until 31st July, by which time fledglings should be able to fend for themselves. If for any reason breeding fails, the voluntary restriction will be lifted.
| What? No photos and topos to whet the appetite? :) JLS - 27/Dec/23 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Fraser and Burnsie