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Climbs 48
Rocktype Mica schist
Altitude 211m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

This series of sport crags has been getting developed since 2021 and has become a great destination for those operating mostly in the mid-6's to mid-7's range. The approach - which is excellent on bike via a decent forestry track - will reward those with stamina, offering a variety of routes from the long, technical and crimpy to the short and steeply overhanging burl-fests. Mostly south-facing with superb views over Loch Long / Loch Goil and the Clyde beyond, it can suffer from both midges and ticks so is generally not climbable in the summer. On clear winter days however, even with a strong northerly, it's unsurpassed. Despite the high quality of the routes here the decision has been made not to give any star ratings for the routes.

The number of quickdraws and type of lower-offs are noted on the start of each route description here. So '7xQD + 2 TLO' means the route has 7 bolts, then a further 2 'thread' lower-offs. The lower-offs are currently being upgraded from double rings on a hanger to heavy-duty snapgates on maillons, which are noted as 'SLO'

Approach notes

From Arrochar, head west on the A83 along the side of the loch for a couple of miles and as you begin to rise uphill towards the start of the Rest and be Thankful, turn left into the Ardgartan Visitor Centre. Cross the bridge and turn left up the rough but surfaced switchback road for 2 miles / 8 minutes, till the trees open out and you arrive at the Coilessan car park. From here, it's best to progress by (e-)bike on a decent forestry track for 10k or 20-25 minutes (close to double that on a regular pedal bike), passing Corran Lochan on your right and the descent to the tip of the peninsula begins. Go round a right-hand hairpin with a levelled hardcore store on your left and continue to the very end of the track, the final 300-400m of which is unsurfaced and becomes no more than a rough 4x4 path. Ditch the bike here and go through the obvious gap in the trees from where the main 'Upstairs' crag is immediately visible. 

Restricted Access

3rd May 2024:

Voluntary climbing restriction: Birds with special legal protection are nesting at this location and climbing is likely to disturb them. This is a criminal offence. In order to protect the rare nesting birds and to avoid breaking the law, a voluntary access restriction has been agreed for both tiers of the outcrop, ie. all of Upstairs and Downstairs sectors. This will last from 1st April until 31st July, by which time fledglings should be able to fend for themselves. If for any reason breeding fails, the voluntary restriction will be lifted.

What? No photos and topos to whet the appetite? :)
JLS - 27/Dec/23
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Climbs at this crag

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