UKC

Restricted Access

1st May 2025:

There have been no sightings of peregrines or nesting this year so the voluntary ban is not currently in effect.

Voluntary climbing restriction: Birds with special legal protection sometimes nest at this location and climbing is likely to disturb them. This is a criminal offence. In order to protect the rare nesting birds and to avoid breaking the law, a voluntary access restriction has been agreed for both main tiers of the outcrop, ie. all of Upstairs and Downstairs sectors. If the peregrines are nesting, this will last from 1st April until 31st July, by which time fledglings should be able to fend for themselves. If for any reason breeding fails, the voluntary restriction will be lifted.

14m. 7xQD + 2SLO. The wall immediately to the right of 'Clyde And Prejudice', finishing up that same route from the ledge. Nice techy climbing, similar to but easier than Flow Test. For the given grade, the edge of the 'Clyde and Prejudice' crack is out of bounds between the 4th and 5th bolts. Eliminate but good.

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Drop Jaw Crack

Grade: 7a ***
(Loch Buie)

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