UKC

Restricted Access

1st May 2025:

There have been no sightings of peregrines or nesting this year so the voluntary ban is not currently in effect.

Voluntary climbing restriction: Birds with special legal protection sometimes nest at this location and climbing is likely to disturb them. This is a criminal offence. In order to protect the rare nesting birds and to avoid breaking the law, a voluntary access restriction has been agreed for both main tiers of the outcrop, ie. all of Upstairs and Downstairs sectors. If the peregrines are nesting, this will last from 1st April until 31st July, by which time fledglings should be able to fend for themselves. If for any reason breeding fails, the voluntary restriction will be lifted.

22m. 11xQD + 2xTLO: Half way along the left hand part of Downstairs is a grey plinth with diagonally orientated rock. This looks wet and slimey but is generally dry and grippy. Scramble up the plinth to gain the steep overlap. Work up a series of decent holds via the central groove before some respite below a small roof. Tackle this and continue first slightly left then back right to the lower-off in a great position over a final bulge.

Fraser Harle 20/Jun/2022.

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Route of Interest
Drop Jaw Crack

Grade: 7a ***
(Loch Buie)

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