UKC

Restricted Access

1st May 2025:

There have been no sightings of peregrines or nesting this year so the voluntary ban is not currently in effect.

Voluntary climbing restriction: Birds with special legal protection sometimes nest at this location and climbing is likely to disturb them. This is a criminal offence. In order to protect the rare nesting birds and to avoid breaking the law, a voluntary access restriction has been agreed for both main tiers of the outcrop, ie. all of Upstairs and Downstairs sectors. If the peregrines are nesting, this will last from 1st April until 31st July, by which time fledglings should be able to fend for themselves. If for any reason breeding fails, the voluntary restriction will be lifted.

22m. 9xQD + 2xTLO: Start 5m down and right of the big tree-stump via a short delicate slab using a series of side-pulls and pockets. Proceed up the corner crack through some burly terrain. Finish straight up, veering left only at the top to a triple lower-off shared with 'Incantations'. Slight run-out between the last bolt and the l/o.

Mark Garthwaite.

Feedback

User Date Notes
JLS 16 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Don’t pull too hard on the big juggy football after the crux - it’s not 100% solid. 		βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don’t pull too hard on the big juggy football after the crux - it’s not 100% solid.

Logged Ascents

14 users have logged this

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 3
Please Login as Existing User to vote
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Drop Jaw Crack

Grade: 7a ***
(Loch Buie)

Loading Notifications...