Climbs 33
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 280m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Come on! © Mark Salter

Crag features

Tucked away at the end of a quiet valley is this pleasant quarried crag. The rock is generally solid and the climbing fairly sustained and pumpy with a good supply of crimps, jugs and cracks available. The base of the cliff is flat and grassy and, in good weather, this is a lovely place to relax between climbs.

The crag faces southwest so gets sun for most of the day. It is also very sheltered and dries quite quickly, making it a possible year-round venue. Seepage can become a problem after prolonged periods of rainfall.

A lot of time and effort has been spent cleaning and equipping this crag but as with any new crag be prepared for the odd loose bit here and there, time and traffic will hopefully sort this out.

Any comments you have about routes,grades etc. are welcome I will deal with them asap.

Approach notes

There are 2 ways to approach this crag.

1. If coming from Pontypool/Blaenavon. Turn off the A4043 into Pontnewynydd Industrial Estate follow this road to a T junction just past the Post office sorting depot. Turn left up the hill along the road passing the Plas y Coed pub on your left, continue straight on the road will become lined with ancient beech trees. About 150m further along on the right hand side are the 2 old entrances to what was Tirpentwys Tip. Park in either.

2. If coming from Crumlin. In Hafodyrynys turn left off the A472, then take the road that runs down the side of the chinese takeaway. After about 70m fork right up the steep hill go round the hairpin bend and pass the Star inn on your left. Cross over a cattle grid, the road levels out, continue straight on crossing a second cattle grid, pass the houses of Pantygasseg on your left following the road down the hill. The 2 entrances to the old tip are on your left in about 250m.

To the Crag. Go through the green metal barrier(top entrance) onto the tarmac road and follow this for about 500m until it bends to the right, at this point go straight on following the gravel road you will pass a footbridge on your left after 250m, 50m after this cross the small drainage ditch on the right, the crag will now be visible approx' 100m on the right. There is a style fixed to the fence to allow easy access. Distances now checked and updated to reality.

Restricted Access

The owners of this site have errected signs stating "no climbing" and there is a history of bolts being damaged by contractors acting for the landowners to discourage climbing. The main concerns from the owners is the potential civil liability that may arise from climbing at the site. BMC are currently in negotiations with agents acting for the owners to secure an access agreement. Please report any incidents or altercations to the BMC but also be prepared to be asked to leave if representatives of the owners are present.

Early Feb visit after a dry few days mint conditions and t-shirts and shorts (until 3pm) after a frosty morning, reliable early season crag, super rock
Owen W-G - 06/Feb/23
It's a lovely crag but some of the anchors are getting dangerous - looking seriously rusted and corroded. Some bolts are loose enough to spin round. Brambles are growing over a few sections too. Definitely could do with rebolting on some routes if possible? Is there a crag moderator to contact regarding this?
louise_travelling_climber - 10/Aug/20
Anyone leave a pair of climbing shoes here on Sunday 30th Sep?
Oli Milvo - 03/Oct/18
A large team of climbers were top roping repeatedly off the in-situ gear yesterday. I politely told them about the crag etiquette. Also, someone has written the grades of the climbs at the bottom of each climb in 6inch high characters in chalk.
Wayne.Gaudin - 27/Apr/17
Please don't tope rope using the in situ lower offs, it wears them out much more quickly - use your own gear for this. Thanks.
bpmclimb - 05/Oct/15
There was A LOT of chalk on the crag today. All the holds hand been chalked, and some had tick marks left on them. Even some foot edges were ridiculously over-chalked making the crag look unsightly. Please remove excessive chalking, including any tick marks you make!
partz - 13/Jun/15
Two loose rocks on strawberry jam that have been marked with an X ( On is on the higher arete section after the crux and the other is the block under the chains!) be careful!
Max Lowry - 10/May/15
Great little crag, t-shirt climbing this afternoon when everywhere looked cold, perfectly sheltered, enjoyable routes, thanks for the tip Ian and to those who equipped the routes.
robbiebrookie - 21/Mar/15
Looks like there has been further regearing with brand new bolts and lower off clips at all the anchors so you don't need to re-thread. Thanks to whoever did this, had a great day climbing in a T shirts yesterday ;-)
Ian Bell - 09/Feb/15
Really enjoyable day climbing some very nice routes. Many thanks to the equippers, your hard work is much appreciated!
mattgrange - 22/Jun/14
Really nice little crag, well worth the stop off on the way from Exeter to the Gower, nice easy routes and fantastically well bolted! Snapgates on the lower-offs was also handy although we still used are own quickdraws first to save wear.
andrewmc - 17/Jun/14
Very nice crag. 10 min easy walk in from the car park. Some excellent routes also, especially supertramp and hail mary.
Ian Bell - 31/Mar/14
Did not require a key for the carpark today. Crag was dry, some loose rock, but that's nothing unusual in the quarry crags!
joepremier - 12/Mar/14
i went there for my first experience with outdoor climbing, and it gave me the full experience, there is such a diverse group of climbs there!
Samol97 - 26/Jun/13
Thanks to Paul (and any others) who have helped put these routes up. We had a great day in the sunshine there today. Quite busy too. Looks like there's a few more possible routes around to the right with a bit of cleaning. Note about finding the crag from Pontypool direction. Just keep going past the Plas Y Coed pub until you see the sign for the Tirpentwys Nature Reserve sign on your right - this is the parking area. Cheers.
wilsers - 09/Jun/13
Really smart crag. Great climbing, a nice setting, and not too much in the the way of loose rock. Good bolting also. Recommended - thanks Paul and anyone else involved.
Jon_Warner - 09/Jun/13
Second the comment below... what mindless numpty does this sort of thing?? It looked like some kind of childrens playgroup arrived!! and whoever was in charge allowed them to run riot with coloured chalk!
Paul Bowen - 08/May/13
Someone has been in over the bank holiday weekend and put pink chalk marks and drawings all over the rocks, adding the grade of each climb, and hearts/flowers everywhere. It looks a mess and spoils the natural feel of the crag. Rain may wash some of it off, but if you're planning on a trip up there soon after 07/05/13 please consider taking some large brushes.
J1_TOV - 07/May/13
There is a quite rusty hanger halfway up "Dirty deeds done dirt cheap" Not sure what has caused it as all the other bolts are brand new. Thanks for your work Paul some great routes.
Gareth T - 20/May/12
As of 24/04/12 all routes back open
Paul Bowen - 24/Apr/12
Went here today 01-04-2012. Most of the routes still have the first two bolts damaged. A few in the centre have been restored and there are some more new bolts waiting for hangers. Still managed to have a great climb and its an amazing sun trap. Top roped to first non-damaged bolt on next route over and clipped in quick draw so I could do all routes.
matt_lethargic - 01/Apr/12
Went to the crag on Sat 15/10/2011 Still a lot of bent studs but the center climbs on the main wall are all good so spent a few hours just haveing a chilld climb, real nice crag tho and will be ace when its all fixed :) Good job Paul
Mattrock1711 - 17/Oct/11
any news on the state of the bolts? thinking about heading up the weekend if its all good
Mattrock1711 - 14/Oct/11
I went to Tirpentwys on 23rd September 2011 and all bolts have been smashed off half way up the walls. Very disappointed I couldn't climb!
rockychic - 25/Sep/11
New sign erected (picture added) since I have last been. A 4x4 stopped and beeped at us; but no problems?
John Procter - 17/Jul/11
Spent Sunday here and had great time. They are so well bolted and really nice climbs. Thanks a lot for your efforts Paul, great job!
saraguti - 20/Jun/11
Will the person who has decided to help themselves to the first hangers on Lundy Boy and Dirty deeds done dirt cheap because they think they are unnecessary please stop and if you have a conscience return them!
Paul Bowen - 31/Aug/10
s'alright, answered my own question!
Toby M - 11/Aug/10
Paul, I work in Pontypool, and sometimes get the chance to wander round to the crag, mid-week, is there an easy way to get to the top, and drop a top rope for shunting practice? Good work, by the way, Toby
Toby M - 27/Jul/10
There are 6 new sport routes on the right hand side front butress which are in need of traffic to clean them up
Paul Bowen - 14/May/10
Climbed here today (12th Feb) One of the best bolted crags I've been to. Well placed bolts and very nice routes for the grade. Some holds a little dirty at the moment but I'm sure this will clean up with a little more traffic. Well Done to Paul and mates, where's next?
stu1981 - 13/Feb/10
Climbed there yesterday (14.10.09), a large block has fallen off Mental Mantles. It was part of the last shelf you mantle onto at the top of the route. Be careful when belaying below that area!
Stu Jones - 15/Oct/09
A big thank you to Paul for his efforts, had a superb day yesterday. The top of Ledge and Braces is a wee bit brambly. Even when the drizzle came, stayed bone dry and the carpark alluded to by Paul is a great place to park. Thought grading on the 6a/6a+'es (my limit) was spot on. Will definitely be back for more. Cheers Paul.
gramee - 08/Jul/09
Went there today and had a great time. A lot of quality routes and nice lines - will definitely be going back. Cheers for developing it guys - much appreciated!
Danhan - 14/Jun/09
Strawberry Jam is a great little route one of the best 7b's on sandstone Great effort by Paul and mates for the cleaning and bolting.
sharpie - 29/May/09
2 new routes have been added recently will try to find out a grade name etc.
Paul Bowen - 05/May/09
Massive thanks to all the guys (particularly Paul) for giving us this little beaut! Just got back from my first venture up there; and my only complaint was that it didn't stay lighter for longer! Looking forward to heading up there again soon, cheers guys!
Hywel Daniels - 01/Apr/09
Had a good morning here on Fruday 6/3/09-thanks Paul for yet another great little crag It was a bit damp but good fun nonetheless-some hard moves on 'Shrew' at the end-can't be easy for shorter climbers! Looking forward to moving onto the harder stuff and the next Paul Bowen creation. Keep up the good work.
Bespoke by Nature - 09/Mar/09
Thank you for your kind comments Pinnochio, yours and the other similar comments above make the effort worthwhile... Paul Bowen
Paul Bowen - 26/Aug/08
Whoever had the gaul to click "bag of shite" (see the comment by Paul Bowen - 15/04/2008) *******BACK OFF FELLA******** Paul & Co do a fantastic job of finding these old quarries, cleaning them up, preparing the rock, setting the routes, dragging generators, drills etc up there to drill & bolt all of those lovely little lifesaving clips you so happily hook onto (and probably thought just grew there like mushrooms!) Not only do he & his pals do all of these weeks of back breaking work, they do it out of their own pocket (and trust me, setting up a place like this can easily run into four figures!!!!) And the whole point is they do it so's people like YOU can climb a top notch place FOR FREE. The fact of the matter is 95% of the people who use his walls, he will never meet. People like paul are the unsung heroes of our sport, making life so much easier & safer for all of us who are daft enough to want to explore terra firma's more vertical aspects, so much so that if climbing were a religion he would probably be sainted..... I for one are very grateful for the job he did at "Crag X" - Gilwern, and am about to jump on my bike to check it out ...............CHEERS PAUL.................
pinnochio - 24/Aug/08
Very nice crag, great work Paul. Topo available for download here ...
Happychappy - 18/Jun/08
not been to the crag yet,bot very much looking forward to good day out,on what looks a first class venue-FOR ALL. Well done to the team behind all the hard work...DIOLCH YN FAWR!
ian carruthers - 17/May/08
Hi Paul....this looks great.Hoping to make this my first outside climb. Sian (John's daughter...if I can get him away from the kites!)
hathoney - 08/May/08
This was my 1st outdoor climb and my first outdoor lead climb. The routes are nicely varied. Somthing for everyone. My favourites so far are Mental Mantels and Chimney Finish
thelittlejo - 08/May/08
A great little crag with really well bolted routes. Thanks to Paul and co for all there effort. Just needs a bit more traffic to clean the routes, but I don't think that'll take long.
dave657 - 23/Apr/08
Great little venue which will keep you entertained for a whole day. Thanks to Paul for the hard work and effort in finding and sharing this crag. Ps mental mantles and diamond dog, both lovely routes.
shane - 15/Apr/08
Come on, own up, who clicked on 'bag of shite' for the route Strawberry Jam... if you don't like my pictures that's fine give them 1's, they maybe shite but they're there to add a visual for the route/description. Please don't vote on the route without having been there and done it. I've asked the mods to remove it. Paul Bowen
Paul Bowen - 15/Apr/08
A really nice little sandstone quarry - pleasant walk-in and lovely south facing aspect. Routes are good as well! some loose/flakey rock but this will decrease after more traffic. Thanks to Paul Bowen and crew for all the hard work!
The Pylon King - 12/Apr/08
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