An excellent route which follows the southwest arete of Pilastro di Rozes. It is a worthy neighbour to the nearby Costantini-Apollonio route and, despite being a few grades easier, it should not be underestimated. Careful route finding is needed because the line wanders slightly following the path of least resistance.
From the gully left of the arete, follow a ledge round to the right, past the arete itself to the base of a left-trending corner-crack.
1) IV+, 35m. Climb the corner-crack to a belay level with, and left of, a yellow roof.
2) IV, 30m. Continue direct up a second corner, exiting left just before the top to a good stance.
3) IV, 35m. Climb direct then make a 20m traverse right to a stance below a sloping roof on the left.
4) IV, 25m. Climb direct then follow a pale corner right. Exit right at the top and continue to reach a wide ledge.
5) IV+, 30m. Ignore the sloping corner on the right and, instead, climb direct then slightly left from the belay up a well-pegged slab. Move left at the top to a belay.
6) IV, 30m. Climb a vegetated crack direct, ignoring another corner on the right, to reach a good belay below a crack.
7) V+, 30m. Climb the crack, aiming for the yellow roofs above, then traverse right below them following a second crack direct to exit right level with one roof and beneath another one. The stance is a few metres to the right.
8) VI-, 25m. Move back left for about 15m then follow a horizontal crack. Belay in a yellow niche.
9) V, 10m. Continue the traverse, descending slightly. This pitch can be combined with pitch 8 but be sure to extend your runners to minimise the inevitable rope-drag.
10) IV+, 35m. Traverse a couple of metres further left, crossing back onto the right side of the arete, then climb a corner direct. Move back right at the top to a stance on the arete.
11) IV+, 40m. Keep left of the arete, avoiding a bulge, moving back right to a stance just left of the arete.
12) IV, 30m. Reach the large ledge and continue between two parallel bulges at their weakest point to enter a gully. Follow this part way to a thread belay.
13) IV+, 40m. Continue in the gully to belay below a huge yellow niche.
14) IV, 30m. Exit rightwards from the niche by a black hole then continue up the chimney-gully, passing a small niche on the right. Continue to a stance below a crack.
15) IV-, 50m. Climb the crack then trend right on easier ground to belay below a small bulge.
16) IV, 30m. Move right then back left up a ramp, then climb a short face to a belay on a pulpit. Via Costantini-Apollonio enters here to follow the ridge and rejoin at the next pitch.
17) IV, 25m. Either move left to follow the ridge back right (easier, II) or move right below a bulge and climb direct, keeping right of a deep yellow niche. Move back left above it then climb direct to reach a shoulder below a gully.
18) III+, 40m. Step right and enter a gully. Follow this to a spike belay.
19) V-, 40m. Continue following the gully to a good thread at a col below the summit of the pillar.
20) I, 30m. Either follow an easy ridge right for the summit experience, or move left easily to reach a saddle and the descent. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Rib on the left of South Face Butress 2
Costantini & Ghedina 1946.
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents