Restricted Access
South Face Access
Take great care when parking at the bottom not block the road, nor access to fields. If following the line of the old wall which goes through the field to the style, WALK in SINGLE FILE and DO NOT spread out over the crop field.
North Quarry Access
There is a car park & seating area on the C105, recommend parking here and (e.g. if in the car park and facing away from the Law, head right) walking about 5m from the edge of the car park then hopping the fence (you'll want to hop somewhere between the car park and the next lay-by), walk up the verge to the next fence and turn left and follow that trail, you'll eventually come into the west side of the quarry. Take care as there's a lot of large, loose rock and rusted sheet metal.
If coming to rappel from top of quarry, park at lay-by slightly further down the C105 cross the road and hop over at the stile then walk up the hill to the top of the quarry.
Nesting birds - No climbing 31st March - 31st July
Access to routes in the North Quarry is not permitted between these dates due to nesting birds. Care must also be taken to not disturb birds in March before the ban begins.
No new bolted routes without the permission of East Lothian Council.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| scottrobertson377 | 26 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfall appears to have altered the crux slightly as of 25/05/23. Football sized piece appears to have come out. Have not climbed on it since so unsure how this will affect the route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rockfall appears to have altered the crux slightly as of 25/05/23. Football sized piece appears to have come out. Have not climbed on it since so unsure how this will affect the route. |
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| alextheclimber | 12 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: 3 stars for slippiness | ||
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Show beta
βeta: 3 stars for slippiness |
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| RobbieTaylor | 30 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice climb, very polished. Small nuts all the way up largest i used was DMM wallnut 6. Like standing on a bar of soap just below the overhang. Good jug for right hand on the overhang | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Nice climb, very polished. Small nuts all the way up largest i used was DMM wallnut 6. Like standing on a bar of soap just below the overhang. Good jug for right hand on the overhang |
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