UKC

Restricted Access

South Face Access

Take great care when parking at the bottom not block the road, nor access to fields. If following the line of the old wall which goes through the field to the style, WALK in SINGLE FILE and DO NOT spread out over the crop field.

North Quarry Access

There is a car park & seating area on the C105, recommend parking here and (e.g. if in the car park and facing away from the Law, head right) walking about 5m from the edge of the car park then hopping the fence (you'll want to hop somewhere between the car park and the next lay-by), walk up the verge to the next fence and turn left and follow that trail, you'll eventually come into the west side of the quarry. Take care as there's a lot of large, loose rock and rusted sheet metal.

If coming to rappel from top of quarry, park at lay-by slightly further down the C105 cross the road and hop over at the stile then walk up the hill to the top of the quarry.

Nesting birds - No climbing 31st March - 31st July
Access to routes in the North Quarry is not permitted between these dates due to nesting birds. Care must also be taken to not disturb birds in March before the ban begins.

No new bolted routes without the permission of East Lothian Council.

The thin seam up the slab between the grooves of Burp and Chute provides delicate crimpy moves and adequate gear. Then pull through the roof directly, just right of the arete, with a long reach. Step left across the groove to finish up the headwall. Largely independent and fun, if a bit squeezed in.

Toph 13/Mar/2022.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Rab6t 11 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Nice line up lower slab but I couldn't make the long reach without crossing to Burp.
Show beta
βeta: Nice line up lower slab but I couldn't make the long reach without crossing to Burp.

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