A truly fantastic route that is slightly marred by the fact the first ascensionists drilled several artificial handholds. Inspite of this it gives a complete climbing experience providing everything one could ask for (except perhaps solitude). It is a classic 'must-do' for anyone up to the challenge!
The route is semi-bolted but should not be considered a sport route. Take plenty of quickdraws for all the fixed gear (which is of varying quality). It is also worth taking a set of wires and cams to back up your protection.
Start beneath a rightwards-slanting corner, about 80m left of the start of the rising ramp to Comici-Dimai, and just right of where the white wall of the main face meets an area of black rock on the bottom right-hand corner of Cima Grande.
1) V+, 40m. Climb the initial short crack to enter the corner proper. Follow this before moving right into a second corner. Continue up this to a good stance on the top of a small pillar.
2) V+, 40m. Ignore the pitons above (they are part of Saxon's Superdirettissima - a rarely done route), instead make a rising traverse left over the flake just off the stance. Continue up a second flake and belay on the top, directly below a square-shaped roof.
3) VII+, 30m. Climb up to a small roof and overcome it, finishing slightly left at the top.
4) V+, 25m. Climb the ramp above, moving slightly right at first, before finishing left.
5) VII-, 30m. Climb direct up the wall and belay on the top of another small pillar.
6) VII, 30m. Climb the wall above, past a couple of hard moves leading slightly right, before heading back left along a shallow ramp. Belay on a good ledge.
7) VII-, 35m. Make a short horizontal traverse to the left - hard at first but becoming easier on pockets - until you reach a flake. Overcome this and follow the left-slanting crack to the belay.
8) IV+, 40m. Traverse left until a blank-looking section forces you to down climb slightly to continue to the traverse. Finish by aiming for the terrace beneath the overhanging corners of the crux pitches.
9) VIII-, 30m. Climb direct to arrive underneath the prominent line of roofs easily seen from the ground. Make a rising traverse right under these until you get to a hanging stance.
10) VIII, 30m. Continue on the same line following a wider overhanging crack, which can be jammed, or use crimps on the right.
11) VIII+, 30m. A stamina crack that is steeper than it looks provides the crux of the route. Climb it, or aid it on all the old pegs as desired.
12) VIII-, 30m. Climb initially right before going left over two athletic overhangs.
13) V+, 40m. Climb the corner above to some welcome easier ground beneath a yellow-looking wall. (If you're running late this is the most comfortable place to spend the night if you don't think you'll make the Ringband Terrace).
14) VI, 30m. Climb the yellow wall above via a shallow crack-corner until you pass a roof.
15) V, 40m. Continue up the steep crack above.
16) V, 60m. Follow the final prominent chimney which is often wet and exit onto the Ringband Terrace. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
One of Europe's mosty sought after routes.
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