A Dolomite classic that is a rite of passage for many making a trip to the Tre Cime. The route is suffering somewhat from its popularity now and the first couple of pitches in particular are very polished. Whilst the climbing is good and the positions fantastic don't expect to be clinging to the arete for the whole route. Once the route moves around to the southeast face you will find yourself buried in a series of strenuous chimneys with some awkward route finding.
Start immediately right of a metal plaque, to the left of the arete, below a yellow corner.
1) V+, 30m. Climb the polished yellow corner to a good stance on the right.
2) VI-, 30m. Continue up the corner keeping left of an overhang, then tackle an overhanging crack to a belay below a yellow crack.
3) III+, 40m. Move right up easier grey rock. Climb past a pillar and continue direct, then slightly right again, to a belay on a terrace.
4) III+, 30m. Move right on easy ground, pass a small yellow roof on its right, then continue up slightly vegetated rock leftwards to a stance below a corner.
5) V-, 30m. Climb the corner direct, move right below a small roof then continue direct up a slab. Move back left on a good ledge visible from below.
6) IV, 30m. Step out right and climb direct over the next ledge and on to the one above. Step left to a belay.
7) IV, 15m. Traverse left along the ledge, level with a horizontal crack, to a belay on the arete.
8) V+, 25m, Climb direct, then move right of the arete then back left to a well-pegged belay just left of the arete.
9) VI+, 30m. Move back right of the arete, following a ramp right, to reach a yellow corner. Climb this (strenuous but well protected) to a good belay about halfway up.
10) V+, 25m. Do not carry on up the corner but, instead, move left under a small roof. Cross onto the left of the arete and continue climbing slightly left across a series of small ledges. Belay below a small roof.
11) V, 30m. Pull through the roof then climb the left-hand of two parallel cracks. Step right, crossing back onto the right of the arete and climb a crack to a terrace.
12) V+, 30m Move left, climb a flake direct, then continue left. Move back right to a wide crack and climb this to a ledge.
13) V, 30m. Continue in the crack then move left on easier broken rock to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Follows of the line of the striking southern arete. The situations are stunningly exposed. The alpine guide gives it VI+.
Emile Comici, Mary Varale 1931.
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