Here we go again, another superb route with a bold bit! This time you are allowed a pitch to warm up on. Start below the groove midway between the arete and the big central corner. 1) 6a, 20m. Climb the groove to a crack. Move right to another crack and follow this to the ledge. 2) 6a, 25m. Climb a short way up the flake above the belay and stick some gear in. Move right to a tiny wire then right again to a chunky side hold. Make a committing move upwards to large holds - bold because you will hit the ledge if the wire pulls, which it probably will. Step back left and climb up the wide crack and superbly-exposed groove above. © Rockfax
FA. J. de Montjoye, A.Whitehouse 20/Apr/1982.
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Grade: E5 6b ***
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