UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes. 

Seasonal Restriction  from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.

RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023

 

 

33m.

Rockfax Description
A popular route. Start below a right-trending line of holds in the middle of the wall. Move up to a ledge then climb the wall above to the break (old peg). Step right to a crack and follow this until it is possible to move left across the wall, on good holds, to a wide break. Finish straight up the wall above. © Rockfax

FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Parsons 17/Jul/1982.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Neil Binns 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Also worth mentioning that I managed to get a an OKish wire in above and below the peg.
Show beta
βeta: Also worth mentioning that I managed to get a an OKish wire in above and below the peg.
Neil Binns 2 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: In the 1995 guidebook the line on the topo is mixed up with "Goats that go gnash in the night"
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In the 1995 guidebook the line on the topo is mixed up with "Goats that go gnash in the night"
Alun 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Is is indeed soft touch for E2 but probably worth it given the state of the rotten old peg that 'protects' the crux. Fine climbing though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is is indeed soft touch for E2 but probably worth it given the state of the rotten old peg that 'protects' the crux. Fine climbing though.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Trevallen Cliff

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 55
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 54
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Strait Gate

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Mother Carey's Kitchen)

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