UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes. 

Seasonal Restriction  from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.

 

 

 

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The corner at the right-hand side of the wall.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the flaky corner to a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 15m. The corner above the belay is followed to a roof. Hand traverse left and pull onto a ledge. An easy corner above leads to the top. © Rockfax

FA. J.Jones, R.Turnbull 26/Apr/1980.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 13
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bohemian Bubblebath

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Penally East)

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