Rockfax Description
The next route continues the theme of testing technical wall climbs with thought-provoking gear. 10m left of the arete is a shallow groove which turns into a wide crack.
1) 6b, 20m. Climb the groove with increasing difficulty to eventually reach the crack with some relief. Follow this to a break, then traverse left until you are below another crack. Climb this crack to a cave and hanging belay.
2) 5c, 25m. Step 3m left then pull over into a thin crack which leads to a ledge on the left. Move back right and climb the bulging groove above to the top. © Rockfax
FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Parsons 18/Apr/1982.
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(The Castle)