The right arete of the pillar gives an elegant experience in head climbing which just merits the grade.
1) 6a, 20m. Climb the right-hand side of the arete until it is possible to pull around onto its left. Tip-toe up this side past a small roof (old peg). Move up past a small wire to a square hold, then climb the dinky groove above with some excitement.
2) 5b, 25m. Climb the shallow groove behind the belay to the next ledge, then move left into Trevallen Pillar. Finish up this. © Rockfax
FA. G.Gibson, A.Hudson 30/Apr/1983.
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