45m, 2 pitches.
Rockfax Description
The big central groove provides a welcome relief from the sustained hard boldness around it.
1) 5b, 35m. Climb up into the groove and follow it to the break. Lean around the roof and reach a bucket. Heave around the lip and continue up the loose-looking (but solid) wall to a ledge.
2) 4c, 10m. Climb the crack/groove just right of the corner. © Rockfax
FA. R.Crewe, K.Winkworth (escaped right at half-height) 24.5.1981. FA. J. de Montjoye, A.Whitehouse 21.3.1982.
Ticklists
101Pembroke Extremes , 50 Extemes at 50
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tom_Shill | 17 Aug |
Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax app still has the wrong line. Go right at the top to the obvious tat belay. Do not go up the line shown in the app. It’s a tottering pile of choss. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax app still has the wrong line. Go right at the top to the obvious tat belay. Do not go up the line shown in the app. It’s a tottering pile of choss. |
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| Kiddie68 | 22 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Mega pitch! All there though the ‘jug’ above the overhang is a bit of a stretch. The moves off the ground felt a little bold but soon flows beautifully. Done in one pitch, which made the top bit seem more enjoyable. Rope drag no problem, though the belay was! I used 2 side stakes and then tied-off a big lump of earth! Would be 3 stars except for the sandy top section. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Mega pitch! All there though the ‘jug’ above the overhang is a bit of a stretch. The moves off the ground felt a little bold but soon flows beautifully. Done in one pitch, which made the top bit seem more enjoyable. Rope drag no problem, though the belay was! I used 2 side stakes and then tied-off a big lump of earth! Would be 3 stars except for the sandy top section. |
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| DubyaJamesDubya | 22 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The picture in the Rockfax guide appears to show the wrong 'escape groove' at the top of the climb. The CC guide shows the corner to the right of the climb as the one to use not the one on the left (which is climbable but harder than 4c and bold and loose if following the description as written) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The picture in the Rockfax guide appears to show the wrong 'escape groove' at the top of the climb. The CC guide shows the corner to the right of the climb as the one to use not the one on the left (which is climbable but harder than 4c and bold and loose if following the description as written) |
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| Misha | 27 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Two in situ threads currently. One is 10/11mm static rope, bit old but looked good. The other is a sling with a screw gate which has welded shut, less good, however can be easily backed up. Could do with cutting out really. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Two in situ threads currently. One is 10/11mm static rope, bit old but looked good. The other is a sling with a screw gate which has welded shut, less good, however can be easily backed up. Could do with cutting out really. |
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| Pythonist | 11 Jul, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful E1 roof. Bouldery start, and good corner climbing to a great sit-down rest in the cool shade of the roof. The top section of pitch 1 seemed perfectly solid to me, but the second pitch is nasty due to dirt and sand from above (I did both pitches together without too much problem) | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful E1 roof. Bouldery start, and good corner climbing to a great sit-down rest in the cool shade of the roof. The top section of pitch 1 seemed perfectly solid to me, but the second pitch is nasty due to dirt and sand from above (I did both pitches together without too much problem) |
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| Frank the Husky | 19 Apr, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: *Not* solid! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: *Not* solid! |
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Route of Interest
The Great Valerio
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Carreg-y-Barcud Area)