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30m.

Rockfax Description
One of Pembroke's most famous routes follows the shiny arete. There is a bit of polish at the start, but not higher up where it matters. Make a steep pull up to the break, then swing left and move up to place some wires (possibly the crux). Climb the fingery wall above to reach better holds. Trend rightwards under some bulges then move up onto a large ledge. Climb the corner above and exit a little further right than is obvious. © Rockfax

FA. N.Colton, D.Hall 05/Apr/1980.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Very good routes in the UK, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

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User Date Notes
Alun 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: BTW a jammed nut and some manky tat were in-situ when I did it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: BTW a jammed nut and some manky tat were in-situ when I did it.
Alun 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The low crux sequence is a little bold and contains quite sustained 5c climbing. The wall above is technically easier but very tiring - fortunately you can have a sit down on the ledge! Final move is a tricky 5b "I really don't want to fall off now" affair but you're well recovered by this point. Brilliant route!
βeta?
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βeta: The low crux sequence is a little bold and contains quite sustained 5c climbing. The wall above is technically easier but very tiring - fortunately you can have a sit down on the ledge! Final move is a tricky 5b "I really don't want to fall off now" affair but you're well recovered by this point. Brilliant route!
Fiend 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent and very substantial route that whilst never desperate, packs in a challenging mixture of bold, committing, sustained, and cruxy climbing. Interesting all the way from the thuggy start (very little polish I thought?) to the slightly shocking finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent and very substantial route that whilst never desperate, packs in a challenging mixture of bold, committing, sustained, and cruxy climbing. Interesting all the way from the thuggy start (very little polish I thought?) to the slightly shocking finish.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 73
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 61
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Fluid Connection

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Saddle Head)