UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes. 

Seasonal Restriction  from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.

RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023

 

 

30m.

Rockfax Description
One of Pembroke's most famous routes follows the shiny arete. There is a bit of polish at the start, but not higher up where it matters. The block at the base has made the start easier but a bit more worrying since it is in the fall zone. Step off the block to gain the streak. The steep original start is still possible but feels artificial with the block there. Climb the fingery wall above to reach better holds. Trend rightwards under some bulges then move up onto a large ledge. Climb the corner above and exit a little further right than is obvious. © Rockfax

FA. N.Colton, D.Hall 05/Apr/1980.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Very good routes in the UK , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Pembroke Chris

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alun 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: BTW a jammed nut and some manky tat were in-situ when I did it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: BTW a jammed nut and some manky tat were in-situ when I did it.
Alun 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The low crux sequence is a little bold and contains quite sustained 5c climbing. The wall above is technically easier but very tiring - fortunately you can have a sit down on the ledge! Final move is a tricky 5b "I really don't want to fall off now" affair but you're well recovered by this point. Brilliant route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The low crux sequence is a little bold and contains quite sustained 5c climbing. The wall above is technically easier but very tiring - fortunately you can have a sit down on the ledge! Final move is a tricky 5b "I really don't want to fall off now" affair but you're well recovered by this point. Brilliant route!
Fiend 10 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent and very substantial route that whilst never desperate, packs in a challenging mixture of bold, committing, sustained, and cruxy climbing. Interesting all the way from the thuggy start (very little polish I thought?) to the slightly shocking finish.
Show beta
βeta: An excellent and very substantial route that whilst never desperate, packs in a challenging mixture of bold, committing, sustained, and cruxy climbing. Interesting all the way from the thuggy start (very little polish I thought?) to the slightly shocking finish.

Logged Ascents

531 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Trevallen Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 83 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 82
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Well Hung

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Linney Head Area)

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