UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

In addition to the agreed restrictions noted below, Peregrines can also nest here and occasionally an agreed restriction is also in place for the routes ‘Sound of the Suburbs’ to ‘Endangered Species’ inclusive. - see signs by the abseil stakes. 

Seasonal Restriction  from 'Meatloaf' to 'Breaking the Habit' inclusive - this is the buttress to the right (east) of 'The Hole' and below the red pot at the cliff top.

RESTRICTION LIFTED JULY 3rd 2023

 

 

45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The original line tackled the upper arete on its left-hand side and is found by many to be slightly easier than the 'slippery grey slab'. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Top pitch as described by First Ascentionist below:
I've never climbed the second pitch as described here (and in Rockfax) via the shiny grey slab; I always took a line based on the left arête straight above the belay niche, climbed mostly on its left side, as consistently described in successive CC guides. It's possible that something came off in the years soon after the FA - I vaguely recall committing to a dodgy flake, and I think there was mention of someone taking to the air clutching such an item (the FA was onsight, ground-up, so no previous cleaning) - but I've done the route far more recently and still took the same line. I only mention this because the various database comments include instances of people having a hard time or even failing on the top pitch, when in fact they were quite possibly off-route if using this description! I've no idea where the shiny slab version came from; people have obviously gone that way but probably initially by mistake. Perhaps it should become the standard finish for Trevallen Arête!

FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Parsons 20/Jun/1981.

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Feedback

User Date Notes
Simon King 21 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: A must do where it pays to take your time and work out the hard move above the thread on the pillar section. Top section, old second pitch, up left arete is pretty tough also!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A must do where it pays to take your time and work out the hard move above the thread on the pillar section. Top section, old second pitch, up left arete is pretty tough also!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Trevallen Cliff

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 11
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Beachcomber

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Triple Overhang Buttress)

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