UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning climb which follows the crackline above and right of the Sunlover start. Move right out of Sunlover then climb up to the fingery cracks which swallow wires. Hard moves lead to the break where a grovelling mantel gains the ledge on the right. Climb the easier, but still testing, wall on the left to a junction with Sunlover at the ledge. Finish as for this. Feels around F7a+. © Rockfax

FA. R.Fawcett, G.Fawcett Jul/1982.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Trad climbs for sport climbers, 101Pembroke Extremes, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5

Feedback

User Date Notes
Strontium Dog 19 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Climbing desparately through the crux I realised it wasn't possible to hang around and put in any gear. Marti looked up in terror as he realised a fall would put me on the deck next to him! Thankfully that didn't happen and once the rest is reached, the climbing eases off. Quite a hard and bold crux section if pushing the boat out.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbing desparately through the crux I realised it wasn't possible to hang around and put in any gear. Marti looked up in terror as he realised a fall would put me on the deck next to him! Thankfully that didn't happen and once the rest is reached, the climbing eases off. Quite a hard and bold crux section if pushing the boat out.
craig h 2 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Found this hard for the grade, and sustained. Know a few people who have taken large falls off this getting very close to the ground. There is a lot of sharp holds in the cracks which can be painfull, this aside the route is fantastic but the mantel makes you think especially when knackered.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found this hard for the grade, and sustained. Know a few people who have taken large falls off this getting very close to the ground. There is a lot of sharp holds in the cracks which can be painfull, this aside the route is fantastic but the mantel makes you think especially when knackered.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Vampire

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Battleship Buttress)
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