UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
A superbly positioned pitch. The series of thin cracks up the left-hand side of the wall with a difficult section to pass the overhang. Above the overhang traverse right to finish up the bolted crack of Blackman's Pinch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The fantastic obvious(-ish) line whose crux graced the front of the 1991 South Wales guide. Start just right of the left-hand arĂȘte of the main face. Follow the crack through the overhang (flexibly), then traverse right along the break (joining Blackman's Pinch) to finish up the wide crack.

Andy Sharp and John Harwood (FFA) 08/Nov/1981.

Feedback

User Date Notes
freelunchprovider 11 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The original line kept to the arete and wandered into the choss above with vague hopes of gear and a belay. Absolutely no need to wander off right except for the desire to stay intact.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The original line kept to the arete and wandered into the choss above with vague hopes of gear and a belay. Absolutely no need to wander off right except for the desire to stay intact.
chris wyatt 12 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned the top arete - to encourage a more direct line and avoid going into the bolts of blackmail's pinch. The gear is pretty useless above the break but it is not hard climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cleaned the top arete - to encourage a more direct line and avoid going into the bolts of blackmail's pinch. The gear is pretty useless above the break but it is not hard climbing

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 22
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Seth / Lazy Sunday Afternoon Combination

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)

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