50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An atmospheric route which follows the wide crack on the right-hand side (looking in) of the buttress. The bridging moves required on the route are a lot easier for tall people.
1) 5c, 25m. Climb the corner-crack and chimney to a break in the first roof. Move up to a rest then chimney out to a spike on the arete. Swing (or bridge if you are lanky) to a ledge up and right.
2) 5a, 25m. Climb the crack above, over the other two roofs. © Rockfax

FA. C.Heard, S.Lewis 16/Jun/1979.


100 best limestone climbs in Britain, The Best of Pembroke, 101Pembroke Extremes, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)


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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 11
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 11
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest

Test Case

Grade: E3 5c ***
(St. Govan's Head)
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