UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
Tackle the hanging blunt arete. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Yorkshire Limestone Graded List

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User Date Notes
Will Hunt 20 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The fang breaking off has apparently returned the route more to how it used to be. The fang had formed by stuff falling off around it!
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βeta: The fang breaking off has apparently returned the route more to how it used to be. The fang had formed by stuff falling off around it!
J B Oughton 18 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Hadn't tried it pre-break, but it's not too hard to climb into the crux section. There's still a decent flake for the left hand at the crux, and there's still room for a heel to make the next move, it's probably just a bit harder/higher to get a heel on. Not sure it's worth glueing back together to be honest, the climbing isn't hard enough to affect the grade, and the rock you'd be gluing onto looks a bit crap.
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βeta: Hadn't tried it pre-break, but it's not too hard to climb into the crux section. There's still a decent flake for the left hand at the crux, and there's still room for a heel to make the next move, it's probably just a bit harder/higher to get a heel on. Not sure it's worth glueing back together to be honest, the climbing isn't hard enough to affect the grade, and the rock you'd be gluing onto looks a bit crap.
loundsy 25 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I’ll try and get there this week to glue this and the hold Pete h mentions
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βeta: I’ll try and get there this week to glue this and the hold Pete h mentions
remus 25 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Big undercut has now fallen off. Will Hunt on yorkshire limestone fb group: "The big tooth undercut on Angel Heart at Troller's Gill came off today. I have stashed the three pieces in the obvious hole at the start of Velveteen Rabbit. The moves entering the crux will still go but I believe that people used this as a heel toe so it would be worth glueing back on."
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βeta: Big undercut has now fallen off. Will Hunt on yorkshire limestone fb group: "The big tooth undercut on Angel Heart at Troller's Gill came off today. I have stashed the three pieces in the obvious hole at the start of Velveteen Rabbit. The moves entering the crux will still go but I believe that people used this as a heel toe so it would be worth glueing back on."
PeteH 15 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Logged to warn others that first big undercut/sidepull on arete (I use it for LH then left heel) is very loose and likely to ping off soon - watch out belayers.
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βeta: Logged to warn others that first big undercut/sidepull on arete (I use it for LH then left heel) is very loose and likely to ping off soon - watch out belayers.
richardh 21 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: bolts currently in deadly state ( 07/05 ), will be replacing them soon(ish).
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βeta: bolts currently in deadly state ( 07/05 ), will be replacing them soon(ish).

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Troller's Gill

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Strictly Masochism

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Gordale Scar)

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