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UKClimbing Team

16m.

Rockfax Description
The line above the ledge of Angel Dust gives a good pitch. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
goi.ashmore 4 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Poor route with a bad start
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Poor route with a bad start
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JordanColquhoun 23 May Lead RP 2nd go.
2nd go.
Adam Ellwood 23 May Lead RP
Hidden 14 May Lead O/S
Jacob Bloodworth ? Mar Lead β
chiverstom 2 Oct, 2019 Lead RP
with Mike Enty , Leedearden
with Mike Enty , Leedearden
ollyroberts 18 Sep, 2019 Lead RP
TomHobbs97 18 Sep, 2019 Lead β
NualaK 3 Sep, 2019 Lead dog
with Rory
with Rory
Eduardo Martinez 2 Sep, 2019 Lead O/S I had already done the start when I did Angel Dust. The meat of the route was done onsight though.
I had already done the start when I did Angel Dust. The meat of the route was done onsight though.
maxrose 25 Aug, 2019 Lead RP Second go/ first RP. Start felt much easier the second time
Second go/ first RP. Start felt much easier the second time
Sam Bentwood 25 Aug, 2019 Lead dog
with maxrose
with maxrose
Hidden 24 Aug, 2019 Lead RP
robertmctague 23 Aug, 2019 Lead rpt
with Pete Dickinson
with Pete Dickinson
Callum Smith 23 Aug, 2019 Lead RP
will9911 7 Aug, 2019 Lead RP
esther ? Aug, 2019 -
Mike W 23 Jul, 2019 Lead β
with Kitty27
with Kitty27
Abi Chard 28 Jun, 2019 Lead RP
jeddb 23 Jun, 2019 Lead RP 3rd RP attempt (needed to refine beta a bit on the crux sections)
3rd RP attempt (needed to refine beta a bit on the crux sections)
ian caton 22 Jun, 2019 Lead RP
Jmpollard 15 May, 2019 Lead RP Really really enjoyed this route, went directly into the ledge after the first bolt as it seemed like the better line, really nice climbing after that! First time doing any hardish sport really and a change of tactics helped a lot. Usually just try to onsight everything and then get shattered but paced myself this time. Dogged bolt to bolt, then linked it all on a toperope, double checked some feet and then did it first redpoint. Could get into this sport climbing lark!
Really really enjoyed this route, went directly into the ledge after the first bolt as it seemed like the better line, really nice climbing after that! First time doing any hardish sport really and a change of tactics helped a lot. Usually just try to onsight everything and then get shattered but paced myself this time. Dogged bolt to bolt, then linked it all on a toperope, double checked some feet and then did it first redpoint. Could get into this sport climbing lark!
mattjoynson 19 Apr, 2019 Lead RP
Hidden ? Apr, 2019 Lead β
Nez ??, 2019 -
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 Lead
Ciaranunderscoretolan 3 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
Rich Kirby 19 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jul, 2017 Lead β
Mat Welsh 10 May, 2017 Lead β Flashed with a false start below the first clip, back down then clean from ground. Hard techy climbing in the lower half. High in the grade
Flashed with a false start below the first clip, back down then clean from ground. Hard techy climbing in the lower half. High in the grade
Hidden 10 May, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 22 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
JayAyBee 18 Aug, 2016 Lead RP 1st RP
with NualaK
1st RP
with NualaK
samwillo 16 Aug, 2016 Lead Much better than Angel Dust, 2nd go after punting off the top
Much better than Angel Dust, 2nd go after punting off the top
david morse 13 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
with tori, Andrew Sandercock, chris todd
with tori, Andrew Sandercock, chris todd
Ian Broome 12 Jun, 2016 Lead RP Tried a few weeks ago. 1Rp today.
Tried a few weeks ago. 1Rp today.
ollyisaclimber 29 May, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 29 May, 2016 Lead β
Joshua Robertson 29 May, 2016 Lead RP
alaan 22 May, 2016 Lead RP 2nd go
2nd go
GrantB 4 Aug, 2015 Lead RP Really nice. Took ages to figure it out, but went really smoothly in the end.
with jkarran
Really nice. Took ages to figure it out, but went really smoothly in the end.
with jkarran
jkarran 23 Jun, 2015 Lead dog Much better. All the moves done now to figure out a rest or two and string it all together.
with GrantB
Much better. All the moves done now to figure out a rest or two and string it all together.
with GrantB
innes 4 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
with Ruth
with Ruth
jkarran 26 May, 2015 Lead dog Not great progress working out the moves. Seems familiar, think I've been on this before and found it hard then too.
with GrantB
Not great progress working out the moves. Seems familiar, think I've been on this before and found it hard then too.
with GrantB
Jack00 29 Apr, 2015 Lead β
with Edd Carrigan
with Edd Carrigan
robertmctague 19 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 11 Apr, 2015 Lead β
Hidden 29 Jul, 2014 Lead RP
markalmack 29 Jul, 2014 Lead RP more of the large undercut holds have fallen off. Grade probably unchanged
with ctodd
more of the large undercut holds have fallen off. Grade probably unchanged
with ctodd
Hidden 27 Jul, 2014 Lead β
Andytapper 24 Jul, 2014 2nd
henry peter jenkins 24 Jul, 2014 Lead 2nd go nice technical climbing with a pleasant finish.
2nd go nice technical climbing with a pleasant finish.
Sean_J 28 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt Retroflash
Retroflash
Sean_J 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 1 Jun, 2014 Lead β Had previously flashed the start doing Angel Dust so not a true flash in that respect. First 7b.
Had previously flashed the start doing Angel Dust so not a true flash in that respect. First 7b.
akhughes ??, 2014 Lead β
oread 21 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
RD 29 Jun, 2013 Lead
thebigfriendlymoose 11 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
with Grubes & co
with Grubes & co
Hidden 27 May, 2012 Lead dog
Dave Warburton 16 May, 2012 Lead RP RP 1, some excellent moves after a slightly disappointing start. Definitely comparable to the other well thought of routes at Trollers. (Edit: 28/6/2014 - I pulled the loose block out - its still possible at a very similar grade so no great issues!)
RP 1, some excellent moves after a slightly disappointing start. Definitely comparable to the other well thought of routes at Trollers. (Edit: 28/6/2014 - I pulled the loose block out - its still possible at a very similar grade so no great issues!)
thebigfriendlymoose 1 Apr, 2012 2nd dog
with Rob and Sam
with Rob and Sam
innes ? Apr, 2012 Lead
Sut 2 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
will9911 26 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with ecw26
with ecw26
bfreeman 14 May, 2011 Lead β
with Dave Nicholl, George, Jon Freeman
with Dave Nicholl, George, Jon Freeman
jfreeman 14 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ben Freeman, Dave Nicholl
with Ben Freeman, Dave Nicholl
Dave Musgrove Jnr u 2 May, 2011 Lead O/S
RD 2 May, 2011 Lead O/S A good route on pretty solid rock now. Well bolted.
A good route on pretty solid rock now. Well bolted.
Hidden 1 May, 2011 Lead RP
Hidden 31 Mar, 2011 Lead RP
marky 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Very good pitch
with John
Very good pitch
with John
uptown 30 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Toby Dunn
with Toby Dunn
Toby Dunn 30 Jul, 2010 Lead β
with Andy Chrome
with Andy Chrome
Hidden 27 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
Nick Phillips 2 May, 2009 Lead RP My first 7b! Yay!
with Nick Dalzell, Sean Murphy, Paul Clarke
My first 7b! Yay!
with Nick Dalzell, Sean Murphy, Paul Clarke
Paul Clarke ??, 2008 Lead
Dave Musgrove 28 May, 1997 Lead RP Had done it with one rest a couple of days earlier. It was graded E6 6b at the time with just 4 bolt runners! Quite bold.
Had done it with one rest a couple of days earlier. It was graded E6 6b at the time with just 4 bolt runners! Quite bold.
Hidden 21 Aug, 1993 Lead β
7 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Jocasta (Sport)

Grade: 7b ***
(Stony Bank (Stoney Bank))