UKC

26m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 4a, 12m. Follow the easy corner to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 14m. A well-positioned and technically challenging pitch. Traverse delicately out leftwards and then make some technical moves up to the horizontal break. Finish up the superb fluted grooves in the headwall. . © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A great route, delicate traverse and a well protected puzzling crux sequence.

FA. Chris Eilbeck, Pete Lucas, Bill Lounds, Stew Wilson 1968. A well travelled route that was the first line to take on the challenge of the wall and discover the unusual flutings on its upper wall..

Ticklists

Ultimate HVS ticklist , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , McCoys Homestyle trad , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Top 10 trowbarrow routes vs-E3

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User Date Notes
MattFleming 12 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Taking wyn on his first day trad climbing, nice and easy with a fun run out at then end
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βeta: Taking wyn on his first day trad climbing, nice and easy with a fun run out at then end
Michael Simpson 21 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: that last comment is true any route to the ledge is better than the current first pitch!
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βeta: that last comment is true any route to the ledge is better than the current first pitch!
Matt_b 2 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Better off doing first pitch to sluice or something similar then walking accross to do assagai. First pitch is pointless.
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βeta: Better off doing first pitch to sluice or something similar then walking accross to do assagai. First pitch is pointless.
Martin1 26 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Not pumpy or hard at all just one lond-ish reach to a break then cruise to the top!
βeta?
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βeta: Not pumpy or hard at all just one lond-ish reach to a break then cruise to the top!
Chris the Tall 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch is just a scramble, but the second pitch is great. Very exposed, quite polished, not very pumpy, but the holds up the flutings are magnificent
βeta?
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βeta: First pitch is just a scramble, but the second pitch is great. Very exposed, quite polished, not very pumpy, but the holds up the flutings are magnificent

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 146
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 141
Votes cast 140
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Witch Bane

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Witches' Quarry)

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