Rockfax Description
The fine central line is now getting a bit worn but is still brilliant. The wider section of crack at two-thirds height is most problematic. Excellent climbing and usually occupied. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Long, sustained and polished 4c, upgraded to HVS, 4c for an onsight attempt. Comment if this is wrong!
FA. Alan Evans, John Horsfall 1973. Jean Jeanie and Aladdinsane start the ball rolling on the crack systems opened up on the Main Wall, as well as initiating the ?Bowie? theme for route names..
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Lancashire's Finest , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , World Graded List , Do you climb VS? , Silverdale and Arnside AONB VS Challenge , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Dan’s Delights , Dewimpification , Top 10 trowbarrow routes vs-E3 , The Silverdale Crag Challenge , Matt's Bucketlist , Northern Cracks , UMC ticklist for the turbo punter (Trad)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| cem | 6 Aug |
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βeta: VS 4c. | βeta? | |
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βeta: VS 4c. |
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| C Rettiw | 29 Apr |
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βeta: Re: grade debate. It's VS 4c. There are no 5a moves. It is intimidating and sustained, but there are plenty of rests and, if you jam, it's never pumpy. You can lean in all the way. Gear is a bit fiddly, but nothing larger than a green cam is obligatory and there are many threads. A big blue cam may steady the nerves toward the top. Although an upgrade is tempting, so that we can all feel better about ourselves, but this would require an upgrade of Harijan, Hollow Earth and a good bit of the Wye Valley, too. Best not to give JJ a confusing grade like "HVS 4c", but for it to continue as a "tough VS". | βeta? | |
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βeta: Re: grade debate. It's VS 4c. There are no 5a moves. It is intimidating and sustained, but there are plenty of rests and, if you jam, it's never pumpy. You can lean in all the way. Gear is a bit fiddly, but nothing larger than a green cam is obligatory and there are many threads. A big blue cam may steady the nerves toward the top. Although an upgrade is tempting, so that we can all feel better about ourselves, but this would require an upgrade of Harijan, Hollow Earth and a good bit of the Wye Valley, too. Best not to give JJ a confusing grade like "HVS 4c", but for it to continue as a "tough VS". |
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| sparkybatteryboy | 25 May, 2024 |
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βeta: Great route. Loose blocks just before top. Something nesting in the depths of the cracks at quarter height | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route. Loose blocks just before top. Something nesting in the depths of the cracks at quarter height |
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| MattFleming | 26 Jan, 2024 |
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βeta: Fab again. In trainers | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fab again. In trainers |
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| nalgene_enjoyer | 27 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Many rocks still loose over the last 5m | βeta? | |
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βeta: Many rocks still loose over the last 5m |
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| mountainremedy | 13 May, 2023 |
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βeta: 13.5.23 Jackdaws nesting where the crack widens | βeta? | |
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βeta: 13.5.23 Jackdaws nesting where the crack widens |
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| Jaco1878 | 9 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Highly polished. Very sustained brilliant jamming all the way up. Wider part of the crack is most problematic but still very enjoyable! | ||
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βeta: Highly polished. Very sustained brilliant jamming all the way up. Wider part of the crack is most problematic but still very enjoyable! |
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| MattRose22 | 1 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Top is very loose | βeta? | |
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βeta: Top is very loose |
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| BertieP42 | 27 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Getting very wobbly at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Getting very wobbly at the top |
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| mattdarli92 | 7 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Found gear tricky to place due to cracks widening at the back. If I hadn't seen the grade before hand would have thought HVS 5a... If it is only 4c then you better believe it's 4c from the eyebrows down! | ||
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βeta: Found gear tricky to place due to cracks widening at the back. If I hadn't seen the grade before hand would have thought HVS 5a... If it is only 4c then you better believe it's 4c from the eyebrows down! |
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| Jackspratt | 25 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Brilliant route, probably my personal favourite after some reflection, great moves throughout and a real experience in learning to rest and conserve energy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route, probably my personal favourite after some reflection, great moves throughout and a real experience in learning to rest and conserve energy. |
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| SBurrow | 6 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Loose blocks near top out / belay | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose blocks near top out / belay |
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| wilkie14c | 22 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Loz and I climbed this in November, top half of the crack was seeping badly and never really felt secure, good gear but big cams and hex's needed, hard 4c climbing but felt much more than VS due to the steepness. So polished that the only footholds were inside the crack - no friction on the face at all, might be differnt come summer though. Has the crack got wider? I don't know but I have a sneaky feeling that many a chock stone from the crack has now long gone making it harder.... If i led it without knowing the grade i would have maybe put it at HVS 4C+ or 5A. hated it and loved it! A classic classic! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Loz and I climbed this in November, top half of the crack was seeping badly and never really felt secure, good gear but big cams and hex's needed, hard 4c climbing but felt much more than VS due to the steepness. So polished that the only footholds were inside the crack - no friction on the face at all, might be differnt come summer though. Has the crack got wider? I don't know but I have a sneaky feeling that many a chock stone from the crack has now long gone making it harder.... If i led it without knowing the grade i would have maybe put it at HVS 4C+ or 5A. hated it and loved it! A classic classic! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Trowbarrow
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Spellbound
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Witches' Quarry)