25m. Feedback
Rockfax Description
The fine central line is now getting a bit worn but is still brilliant. The wider section of crack at two-thirds height is most problematic. Excellent climbing and usually occupied. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Very loose blocks just before the top out. Please take care not to dislodge them on yourselves or your belayer!
FA. Alan Evans, John Horsfall 1973. Jean Jeanie and Aladdinsane start the ball rolling on the crack systems opened up on the Main Wall, as well as initiating the ‘Bowie’ theme for route names..
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Lancashire's Finest, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Silverdale and Arnside AONB VS Challenge, Cerith's Lancaster Wishlist, A Lakeland Apprenticeship
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| BertieP42 | 27 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Getting very wobbly at the top | βeta? | |
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βeta: Getting very wobbly at the top |
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| mattdarli92 | 7 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Found gear tricky to place due to cracks widening at the back. If I hadn't seen the grade before hand would have thought HVS 5a... If it is only 4c then you better believe it's 4c from the eyebrows down! | ||
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βeta: Found gear tricky to place due to cracks widening at the back. If I hadn't seen the grade before hand would have thought HVS 5a... If it is only 4c then you better believe it's 4c from the eyebrows down! |
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| Leeanne303 | 21 Feb, 2020 |
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βeta: Hard putting gear in . Really good route | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hard putting gear in . Really good route |
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| Jackspratt | 25 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Brilliant route, probably my personal favourite after some reflection, great moves throughout and a real experience in learning to rest and conserve energy. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant route, probably my personal favourite after some reflection, great moves throughout and a real experience in learning to rest and conserve energy. |
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| Angry old man | 20 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Great route spoilt by excessive polish | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route spoilt by excessive polish |
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| SBurrow | 6 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Loose blocks near top out / belay | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose blocks near top out / belay |
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| Al Evans | 24 Mar, 2006 |
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βeta: And it has been supposedly going to fall down for over 30 years, I really dont think its changed except to get more solid, I've soloed it a few times and I would never have done that in its original state. It was definitely HVS then. Credit to John, Jeans brother, who was 11 when we did it and it was about his second climb! | βeta? | |
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βeta: And it has been supposedly going to fall down for over 30 years, I really dont think its changed except to get more solid, I've soloed it a few times and I would never have done that in its original state. It was definitely HVS then. Credit to John, Jeans brother, who was 11 when we did it and it was about his second climb! |
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| johnh | 30 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Excellent route, though it ate all my big gear leaving me a bit vulnerable towards the top. Some foot holds are getting polished and the stability of the face is certainly suspect. I found a couple of loose blockes just below the top too! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Excellent route, though it ate all my big gear leaving me a bit vulnerable towards the top. Some foot holds are getting polished and the stability of the face is certainly suspect. I found a couple of loose blockes just below the top too! |
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| wilkie14c | 22 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: Loz and I climbed this in November, top half of the crack was seeping badly and never really felt secure, good gear but big cams and hex's needed, hard 4c climbing but felt much more than VS due to the steepness. So polished that the only footholds were inside the crack - no friction on the face at all, might be differnt come summer though. Has the crack got wider? I don't know but I have a sneaky feeling that many a chock stone from the crack has now long gone making it harder.... If i led it without knowing the grade i would have maybe put it at HVS 4C+ or 5A. hated it and loved it! A classic classic! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loz and I climbed this in November, top half of the crack was seeping badly and never really felt secure, good gear but big cams and hex's needed, hard 4c climbing but felt much more than VS due to the steepness. So polished that the only footholds were inside the crack - no friction on the face at all, might be differnt come summer though. Has the crack got wider? I don't know but I have a sneaky feeling that many a chock stone from the crack has now long gone making it harder.... If i led it without knowing the grade i would have maybe put it at HVS 4C+ or 5A. hated it and loved it! A classic classic! |
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| Andy Hobson | 6 May, 2004 |
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βeta: A great climb, bomber gear all the way, nicely sustained, not particularly strenuous but with loads of resting places if you need them. Quite intimidating due to the polish but never harder than 4c. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A great climb, bomber gear all the way, nicely sustained, not particularly strenuous but with loads of resting places if you need them. Quite intimidating due to the polish but never harder than 4c. |
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Route of Interest
Metamorphosis
Grade: VS 4c ***(Anglezarke Quarry)