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UKC Logbook Description Very loose blocks just before the top out. Please take care not to dislodge them on yourselves or your belayer!
FA. Alan Evans, John Horsfall 1973. Jean Jeanie and Aladdinsane start the ball rolling on the crack systems opened up on the Main Wall, as well as initiating the ‘Bowie’ theme for route names.
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βeta:Brilliant route, probably my personal favourite after some reflection, great moves throughout and a real experience in learning to rest and conserve energy.
Show beta βeta:Brilliant route, probably my personal favourite after some reflection, great moves throughout and a real experience in learning to rest and conserve energy.
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βeta:And it has been supposedly going to fall down for over 30 years, I really dont think its changed except to get more solid, I've soloed it a few times and I would never have done that in its original state. It was definitely HVS then. Credit to John, Jeans brother, who was 11 when we did it and it was about his second climb!
Show beta βeta:And it has been supposedly going to fall down for over 30 years, I really dont think its changed except to get more solid, I've soloed it a few times and I would never have done that in its original state. It was definitely HVS then. Credit to John, Jeans brother, who was 11 when we did it and it was about his second climb!
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βeta:Excellent route, though it ate all my big gear leaving me a bit vulnerable towards the top. Some foot holds are getting polished and the stability of the face is certainly suspect. I found a couple of loose blockes just below the top too!
Show beta βeta:Excellent route, though it ate all my big gear leaving me a bit vulnerable towards the top. Some foot holds are getting polished and the stability of the face is certainly suspect. I found a couple of loose blockes just below the top too!
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βeta:Loz and I climbed this in November, top half of the crack was seeping badly and never really felt secure, good gear but big cams and hex's needed, hard 4c climbing but felt much more than VS due to the steepness. So polished that the only footholds were inside the crack - no friction on the face at all, might be differnt come summer though. Has the crack got wider? I don't know but I have a sneaky feeling that many a chock stone from the crack has now long gone making it harder....
If i led it without knowing the grade i would have maybe put it at HVS 4C+ or 5A. hated it and loved it! A classic classic!
Show beta βeta:Loz and I climbed this in November, top half of the crack was seeping badly and never really felt secure, good gear but big cams and hex's needed, hard 4c climbing but felt much more than VS due to the steepness. So polished that the only footholds were inside the crack - no friction on the face at all, might be differnt come summer though. Has the crack got wider? I don't know but I have a sneaky feeling that many a chock stone from the crack has now long gone making it harder....
If i led it without knowing the grade i would have maybe put it at HVS 4C+ or 5A. hated it and loved it! A classic classic!
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βeta:A great climb, bomber gear all the way, nicely sustained, not particularly strenuous but with loads of resting places if you need them. Quite intimidating due to the polish but never harder than 4c.
Show beta βeta:A great climb, bomber gear all the way, nicely sustained, not particularly strenuous but with loads of resting places if you need them. Quite intimidating due to the polish but never harder than 4c.
Long time since I last did this. The route is still fantastic and is not too badly polished, as some others may have you believe. Think about the conditions, so prob best not to do it in the full afternoon summer sun.
with Tom Murray
Long time since I last did this. The route is still fantastic and is not too badly polished, as some others may have you believe. Think about the conditions, so prob best not to do it in the full afternoon summer sun.
Fantastic route. Seconded Chris up. A bit wet near the top, took big gear, big nuts and hexes. NO POLISH! If you think this is polished, you haven't climbed at Symonds yat, wintours leap, cheddar gorge, Avon or any other popular limestone crags. Worthy of 3 stars, 4c in the wet.
with Chris
Fantastic route. Seconded Chris up. A bit wet near the top, took big gear, big nuts and hexes. NO POLISH! If you think this is polished, you haven't climbed at Symonds yat, wintours leap, cheddar gorge, Avon or any other popular limestone crags. Worthy of 3 stars, 4c in the wet.
Sustained climbing on decent holds (polish less of an issue than expected). Few much needed rests. More big gear would have been useful, few committing moves taken whilst runout.
Sustained climbing on decent holds (polish less of an issue than expected). Few much needed rests. More big gear would have been useful, few committing moves taken whilst runout.
Looks like all has been said about this route, but still what an amazing route! Felt like it's never going to end and swallowed my whole (and part of Martin's!) rack! That feeling when you top out though! :D
Looks like all has been said about this route, but still what an amazing route! Felt like it's never going to end and swallowed my whole (and part of Martin's!) rack! That feeling when you top out though! :D
Yeah Ive led, pumped out of my mind, sweating like a roast hog. Then 2nd, nice and relaxed.
Today was a scorcher, so had to do this 'Staf' again, took my time and enjoyed it, boring for the belayer but today I maxed my 'measure'. Quality but polished Lanky route.
Yeah Ive led, pumped out of my mind, sweating like a roast hog. Then 2nd, nice and relaxed.
Today was a scorcher, so had to do this 'Staf' again, took my time and enjoyed it, boring for the belayer but today I maxed my 'measure'. Quality but polished Lanky route.
A brilliant climb although I'm glad it wasn't in the sun today. Also could have done with some large gear. Emily seconded without too much difficulty. Great stuff
with Emily Grout
A brilliant climb although I'm glad it wasn't in the sun today. Also could have done with some large gear. Emily seconded without too much difficulty. Great stuff
Pleased to finally lead this legendary climb. Seconded twice before and both times told myself I could never lead it but just went for it this time. Some hard moves in places made harder by its popularity. A great workout.
Pleased to finally lead this legendary climb. Seconded twice before and both times told myself I could never lead it but just went for it this time. Some hard moves in places made harder by its popularity. A great workout.
Felt *much* harder than last time. Recalled that it got much easier after the slippery crux bit, but actually seemed to get progressively more difficult. Had a right gibber. Turned out I'd finished via Major Tom!
with Alastair Mitchell
Felt *much* harder than last time. Recalled that it got much easier after the slippery crux bit, but actually seemed to get progressively more difficult. Had a right gibber. Turned out I'd finished via Major Tom!
We only had a single basic rack and so had to place the protection sparsely which otherwise would make the route less scary. Double set of cams and nuts would be helpful.
We only had a single basic rack and so had to place the protection sparsely which otherwise would make the route less scary. Double set of cams and nuts would be helpful.
Ran out of gear 3/4 way up and rested on what gear I had left, after constant down climbing to recycle the only big cams I had. Limestone is weird! Clay gave me a top rope to finish last section. Think I'd rather have done Assagai.
with Jack Buczko
Ran out of gear 3/4 way up and rested on what gear I had left, after constant down climbing to recycle the only big cams I had. Limestone is weird! Clay gave me a top rope to finish last section. Think I'd rather have done Assagai.
Was thinking of leading but Elliot wanted to lead. Glad he did as I had two very worrying moments and he said that it felt very hard. The polish and general sliminess are really starting to detract from the quality of the route.
Was thinking of leading but Elliot wanted to lead. Glad he did as I had two very worrying moments and he said that it felt very hard. The polish and general sliminess are really starting to detract from the quality of the route.
Felt like Zoe had sandbagged me into this...Could have done with more quickdraws and big gear and I thought we had bad polish in the south?!?
To be fair it's a great line with lovely views from the top.
Felt like Zoe had sandbagged me into this...Could have done with more quickdraws and big gear and I thought we had bad polish in the south?!?
To be fair it's a great line with lovely views from the top.
Really cool route! It is a little difficult to protect in some places and the polish is noticeable, however the exposure, position and character is amazing!
with Matt Amos
Really cool route! It is a little difficult to protect in some places and the polish is noticeable, however the exposure, position and character is amazing!
seconded about 5 years ago with kirk. couple of very worrying large blocks almost at the top - hastily moved hand to something else. absolutely lovely route
seconded about 5 years ago with kirk. couple of very worrying large blocks almost at the top - hastily moved hand to something else. absolutely lovely route
Sustained but never too hard. Was a bit cold, so struggled to feel my toes a bit which made a few moves feel harder than they should. Gear is a bit fiddly in places.
Sustained but never too hard. Was a bit cold, so struggled to feel my toes a bit which made a few moves feel harder than they should. Gear is a bit fiddly in places.
Elected to let Al have the lead after reading all the comments about polish. Was pleasantly surprised after that, beautiful route, jugs all the way. The fossils in the rock are superb!
Elected to let Al have the lead after reading all the comments about polish. Was pleasantly surprised after that, beautiful route, jugs all the way. The fossils in the rock are superb!
Great lead from Tibor. This climb just keeps coming at you. Long and sustained and i think the level of polish now warrents this to be HVS
Still a superb route that i have waited20 year to do!
with Tibor
Great lead from Tibor. This climb just keeps coming at you. Long and sustained and i think the level of polish now warrents this to be HVS
Still a superb route that i have waited20 year to do!
Loved this route and the sun shining helped! A large hole / crag in the middle was a bit tricky but an undercling to hold onto helped. Could I do it again??
with Conan
Loved this route and the sun shining helped! A large hole / crag in the middle was a bit tricky but an undercling to hold onto helped. Could I do it again??
Very very scary... seems like the whole cliff will topple onto you. Climbing a bit thuggish but feels like an acheivement. Sometimes a bit glassy- lots of locks & jams stop it being pumpy.
with Chiz
Very very scary... seems like the whole cliff will topple onto you. Climbing a bit thuggish but feels like an acheivement. Sometimes a bit glassy- lots of locks & jams stop it being pumpy.
I was truly terrified on this climb! somehow managed to fight through the fear and finish it. nearly came of a few times with elvis leg! amazing adventure though!
I was truly terrified on this climb! somehow managed to fight through the fear and finish it. nearly came of a few times with elvis leg! amazing adventure though!
Got to half height without too much trouble, found it quite polished. Eventually got out of the niche only to drop my four large rocks - lowered down as felt pumped and didn't feel confident enough to continue without these pieces. Had climbed quite well - head was good and footwork not bad - though found the steepness and distance a bit intmidating and perhaps needed to be back in the groove of regular climbing as was as dwelling on the difficulties somewhat
with Pete Bennett
Got to half height without too much trouble, found it quite polished. Eventually got out of the niche only to drop my four large rocks - lowered down as felt pumped and didn't feel confident enough to continue without these pieces. Had climbed quite well - head was good and footwork not bad - though found the steepness and distance a bit intmidating and perhaps needed to be back in the groove of regular climbing as was as dwelling on the difficulties somewhat
Awesome, really nice climbing in-between good gear in hollow sounding rock which was fun. almost fell off near the top when i pulled on a big block which rocked/almost fell off
Awesome, really nice climbing in-between good gear in hollow sounding rock which was fun. almost fell off near the top when i pulled on a big block which rocked/almost fell off
Felt like glass on the crux, last time I did it I was leading VS at my max, now after leading HVS for the last year or so, I would say Jean Jeanie is more HVS than VS, sustained but still brilliant, a really good top end VS test piece!
Felt like glass on the crux, last time I did it I was leading VS at my max, now after leading HVS for the last year or so, I would say Jean Jeanie is more HVS than VS, sustained but still brilliant, a really good top end VS test piece!
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