UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
The fine central line is now getting a bit worn but is still brilliant. The wider section of crack at two-thirds height is most problematic. Excellent climbing and usually occupied. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Very loose blocks just before the top out. Please take care not to dislodge them on yourselves or your belayer!

FA. Alan Evans, John Horsfall 1973. Jean Jeanie and Aladdinsane start the ball rolling on the crack systems opened up on the Main Wall, as well as initiating the ‘Bowie’ theme for route names..

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Lancashire's Finest, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Silverdale and Arnside AONB VS Challenge, Cerith's Lancaster Wishlist, A Lakeland Apprenticeship

Feedback

User Date Notes
BertieP42 27 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Getting very wobbly at the top
βeta?
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βeta: Getting very wobbly at the top
mattdarli92 7 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Found gear tricky to place due to cracks widening at the back. If I hadn't seen the grade before hand would have thought HVS 5a... If it is only 4c then you better believe it's 4c from the eyebrows down!
 
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βeta: Found gear tricky to place due to cracks widening at the back. If I hadn't seen the grade before hand would have thought HVS 5a... If it is only 4c then you better believe it's 4c from the eyebrows down!
Leeanne303 21 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Hard putting gear in . Really good route
βeta?
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βeta: Hard putting gear in . Really good route
Jackspratt 25 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route, probably my personal favourite after some reflection, great moves throughout and a real experience in learning to rest and conserve energy.
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant route, probably my personal favourite after some reflection, great moves throughout and a real experience in learning to rest and conserve energy.
Angry old man 20 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route spoilt by excessive polish
βeta?
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βeta: Great route spoilt by excessive polish
SBurrow 6 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose blocks near top out / belay
βeta?
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βeta: Loose blocks near top out / belay
Al Evans 24 Mar, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: And it has been supposedly going to fall down for over 30 years, I really dont think its changed except to get more solid, I've soloed it a few times and I would never have done that in its original state. It was definitely HVS then. Credit to John, Jeans brother, who was 11 when we did it and it was about his second climb!
βeta?
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βeta: And it has been supposedly going to fall down for over 30 years, I really dont think its changed except to get more solid, I've soloed it a few times and I would never have done that in its original state. It was definitely HVS then. Credit to John, Jeans brother, who was 11 when we did it and it was about his second climb!
johnh 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route, though it ate all my big gear leaving me a bit vulnerable towards the top. Some foot holds are getting polished and the stability of the face is certainly suspect. I found a couple of loose blockes just below the top too!
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent route, though it ate all my big gear leaving me a bit vulnerable towards the top. Some foot holds are getting polished and the stability of the face is certainly suspect. I found a couple of loose blockes just below the top too!
wilkie14c 22 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Loz and I climbed this in November, top half of the crack was seeping badly and never really felt secure, good gear but big cams and hex's needed, hard 4c climbing but felt much more than VS due to the steepness. So polished that the only footholds were inside the crack - no friction on the face at all, might be differnt come summer though. Has the crack got wider? I don't know but I have a sneaky feeling that many a chock stone from the crack has now long gone making it harder.... If i led it without knowing the grade i would have maybe put it at HVS 4C+ or 5A. hated it and loved it! A classic classic!
βeta?
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βeta: Loz and I climbed this in November, top half of the crack was seeping badly and never really felt secure, good gear but big cams and hex's needed, hard 4c climbing but felt much more than VS due to the steepness. So polished that the only footholds were inside the crack - no friction on the face at all, might be differnt come summer though. Has the crack got wider? I don't know but I have a sneaky feeling that many a chock stone from the crack has now long gone making it harder.... If i led it without knowing the grade i would have maybe put it at HVS 4C+ or 5A. hated it and loved it! A classic classic!
Andy Hobson 6 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A great climb, bomber gear all the way, nicely sustained, not particularly strenuous but with loads of resting places if you need them. Quite intimidating due to the polish but never harder than 4c.
βeta?
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βeta: A great climb, bomber gear all the way, nicely sustained, not particularly strenuous but with loads of resting places if you need them. Quite intimidating due to the polish but never harder than 4c.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 244
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 228
Votes cast 208
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Metamorphosis

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Anglezarke Quarry)
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