A great climb comparable to the Classic Rock tick Gashed Crag. Start 20m left of South Gully.
1) 20m. The thin crack on the narrow rib leads to a small ledge.
2) 20m. Follow the rib to a smooth slabby wall split by a central crack. Climb the crack then move right to the sharp arete and ascend this to another ledge.
3) 10m. The Block Tower. Climb the tower near its left edge, although it is avoidable either side.
4) 30m. From the top of the tower, scramble over blocks to a broad ridge covered in good holds. This leads to a steeper wall with a challenging crack leading to a good terrace.
5) 13m. Above is a bay with a rib on either side - take the left rib to the next terrace.
6) 12m. Climb straight up the summit wall aiming for an overlap about 10m left of the prominent nose of a bubbly wall. Then climb the steep slab on the left to the top. © Rockfax
Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe
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