A great, long route up the striking ridge passing the overhang of the Gash.
1) 45m. Start 35m left of South Gully, just above a widening in the terrace. Follow a small groove to an overlap at 9m. Turn this rightwards and climb easier ground up and right to ledges beneath the ridge proper and the left-hand end of the Gash.
2) 18m. Follow the ribbed wall up to the large sloping ledge of the Gash, a feature that looks like a giant took a swing with an axe at the crag. Belay on the far right beneath the chimney.
3) 20m. Follow the awkward chimney. On the final move, your foot will slip several times before you finally get enough purchase to escape. Climb the wall above leftwards to the ridge.
4) 38m. Follow the exposed and rough ridge (various belays possible).
5) 38m. Continue up the ridge to reach a good ledge below the final tower.
6) 17m. Several alternatives can be found here, most feel hard. Climb the groove past a tricky roof. © Rockfax
Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , North wales road to ruins HVS , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The Long Routes , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Ogwen , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves
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