UKC Logbook - 'Gashed Crag'

190m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The striking ridge, passing the overhang of the Gash. Start 10m left of South Gully above a widening in the terrace..
1) 45m. Follow a small groove to an overlap at 9m. Turn this rightwards and climb easier ground up and right to ledges beneath the ridge proper and the left-hand end of the Gash.
2) 18m. Follow the ribbed wall up to the large sloping ledge of the Gash - a feature that looks like a giant took a swing with an axe at the crag. Belay on the far right beneath the chimney.
3) 20m. Follow the awkward chimney. On the final move, your foot will slip several times before you finally get enough purchase to escape. Climb the wall above leftwards to the ridge.
4) 38m. Follow the exposed and rough ridge (various belays).
5) 38m. Continue up the ridge to reach a good ledge below the summit wall.
6) 17m. Move out to the right and climb a deep groove to a narrow chimney.
6a) Bubbly Wall, HS. Climb direct for a good but harder finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , North wales road to ruins HVS , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The Long Routes , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Ogwen , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , Wales Multipitch , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , No you're a punter , Llidberis , North Wales , 2024

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User	Date		Notes
Michael Cotton	8 Oct	Show βeta βeta: The chimney on pitch 3 is mega polished and a thuggish squirm at the start before you can step right onto better holds which lead to a block belay. The Rockfax topo for the last pitch is totally wrong as that's the route up Bubbly Wall (HS).	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The chimney on pitch 3 is mega polished and a thuggish squirm at the start before you can step right onto better holds which lead to a block belay. The Rockfax topo for the last pitch is totally wrong as that's the route up Bubbly Wall (HS).
stewart murray	16 May, 2022	Show βeta βeta: The chimney on P3 can be avoided. From its foot move right a short way round the corner and climb straight up a wall leading to the chimney’s top.
Show beta βeta: The chimney on P3 can be avoided. From its foot move right a short way round the corner and climb straight up a wall leading to the chimney’s top.
youcallwefall	19 Apr, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Study route well before starting, easy to drift to far right, becomes a bit of a mess	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Study route well before starting, easy to drift to far right, becomes a bit of a mess
GEd_83	28 Dec, 2021	Show βeta βeta: The first chimney can be protected with a high brass offset or similar on the left wall.
Show beta βeta: The first chimney can be protected with a high brass offset or similar on the left wall.
gazj1986	19 Dec, 2021	Show βeta βeta: The most E1 VD route in Snowdonia? You don't expect to protect a thugish polihed chimney with brass micros. 8hrs I could have better spent counting the blades of grass in my garden.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The most E1 VD route in Snowdonia? You don't expect to protect a thugish polihed chimney with brass micros. 8hrs I could have better spent counting the blades of grass in my garden.
bummingham	24 Jul, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Rockfax final pitch topo is wrong. Go right from the belay to the polished chimney, where they have the line for Munich Climb.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Rockfax final pitch topo is wrong. Go right from the belay to the polished chimney, where they have the line for Munich Climb.
rachcrewe	4 Jun, 2021	Show βeta βeta: New Rockfax Scrambles guides sends you up "Bubbly Wall" which is very dirty, graded HS in the CC Ogwen guide. the true finish is round to the right up a polished chimney with jammed flakes: recommended for a second bite of the chimney cherry!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: New Rockfax Scrambles guides sends you up "Bubbly Wall" which is very dirty, graded HS in the CC Ogwen guide. the true finish is round to the right up a polished chimney with jammed flakes: recommended for a second bite of the chimney cherry!
cir10	10 Aug, 2020	Show βeta βeta: A good varied, climb though the polished chimmney (pitch 3) is hard for the grade. I wonder - has anyone taken the face to the left of the gash? The final chimmney pitch (CC guide) was more "entertaining" than the earlier one, but will will probably take the bubbly wall next time!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: A good varied, climb though the polished chimmney (pitch 3) is hard for the grade. I wonder - has anyone taken the face to the left of the gash? The final chimmney pitch (CC guide) was more "entertaining" than the earlier one, but will will probably take the bubbly wall next time!
THE.WALRUS	19 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Rockfax description is very poor - would be a good idea to have a look a pretty much any other guide before starting the climb.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Rockfax description is very poor - would be a good idea to have a look a pretty much any other guide before starting the climb.
Rich2002	13 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Do the HS finish much more pleasant than the VD up a chimney thing.
Show beta βeta: Do the HS finish much more pleasant than the VD up a chimney thing.
Felix Ottey	12 Jul, 2020	Show βeta βeta: Rock fax description is truly awful. We luckily had the cc guide. With bubbly wall finish this was one of the best easy routes I’ve done on Tryfan.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Rock fax description is truly awful. We luckily had the cc guide. With bubbly wall finish this was one of the best easy routes I’ve done on Tryfan.
TobyA	30 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: The polished chimney, in the rain, with a pack on, is not ideal! :-)
Show beta βeta: The polished chimney, in the rain, with a pack on, is not ideal! :-)
Jeff Beynon	10 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Well I have to say this really is a route that keeps on giving, with testing moves on each pitch. The third pitch up the slick chimney, with worn holds felt difficult, with a sketchy first couple of moves with limited scope for protection - small cam ‘might’ help a bit on side wall. It was a relief to get to the top of this without coming off. Stayed out of the chimney itself. 4th and 5th pitches a bit thin on pro in places but the Rock was great and the exposure exhilarating in places. Exciting stuff. As for the last pitch, I just couldn’t see/get it. There is a roof that runs along most of the way forwards. Checked out the groove slightly to the left of exiting the ridge below. It looked easy-ish from below but on closer inspection had no real protection above what seemed like a hard move up into the groove and no positive hand holds to haul up on either. Gave up on this in the end and traversed to the left across a slight scoop with some small holds using a quartz band as a handrail before heading into the corner, and stepping around the rib onto a bobbly face, which got decidedly easier as a line up to the summit. This alternative line to the top certainly felt more manageable albeit that it felt more adventurous and less certain. Interested to learn from others the line we ought to have taken. If there is such a thing.
Show beta βeta: Well I have to say this really is a route that keeps on giving, with testing moves on each pitch. The third pitch up the slick chimney, with worn holds felt difficult, with a sketchy first couple of moves with limited scope for protection - small cam ‘might’ help a bit on side wall. It was a relief to get to the top of this without coming off. Stayed out of the chimney itself. 4th and 5th pitches a bit thin on pro in places but the Rock was great and the exposure exhilarating in places. Exciting stuff. As for the last pitch, I just couldn’t see/get it. There is a roof that runs along most of the way forwards. Checked out the groove slightly to the left of exiting the ridge below. It looked easy-ish from below but on closer inspection had no real protection above what seemed like a hard move up into the groove and no positive hand holds to haul up on either. Gave up on this in the end and traversed to the left across a slight scoop with some small holds using a quartz band as a handrail before heading into the corner, and stepping around the rib onto a bobbly face, which got decidedly easier as a line up to the summit. This alternative line to the top certainly felt more manageable albeit that it felt more adventurous and less certain. Interested to learn from others the line we ought to have taken. If there is such a thing.
odari	16 May, 2015	Show βeta βeta: Harder than VD and some sections are very exposed. The chimney is extremely polished and non protegible until almost the exit, I'd give it a HS; then follows a section of face climb with poor gear if any, that's another run out, a big one. The second chimney at the top is more an offwidth and although slightly steeper is easier and takes loads of gear.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Harder than VD and some sections are very exposed. The chimney is extremely polished and non protegible until almost the exit, I'd give it a HS; then follows a section of face climb with poor gear if any, that's another run out, a big one. The second chimney at the top is more an offwidth and although slightly steeper is easier and takes loads of gear.