UKC

205m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This is a scramble with a tricky initial pitch. Start left of Grooved Arete, and to the right of North Gully, below a polished corner.
1) 20m. Scurry up the corner, or cracks to the right, to a break and traverse right to a block belay on the arete.
2) 30m. Head up and right behind the block and then back left into a groove directly above the stance. Move left onto a rib and head up following the left side of the rib to a grassy ledge.
3) 30m. The route becomes more indistinct here and you can climb up in a variety of places but generally trending up and left to a large terrace. Most people escape left along the terrace and into North Gully and make their way to the summit.
North Buttress Indirect - The initial groove and crack above can be skirted around to give an excellent Diff. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Puttrell's Progress , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , Wales Multipitch , Summertime Travels 2022 , No you're a punter

Feedback

User Date Notes
mike_doodle 14 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: As others have pointed out, be aware that the Rockfax topo line (and description here) takes you up the obvious open-book corner which is the Variation Start, HS 4b. If you want the VDiff start, use the shallower parallel groove immediately right of the corner (as per the CC guide).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As others have pointed out, be aware that the Rockfax topo line (and description here) takes you up the obvious open-book corner which is the Variation Start, HS 4b. If you want the VDiff start, use the shallower parallel groove immediately right of the corner (as per the CC guide).
Bilbo 30 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Cams of 3.5 and 4.0 or similar size Torque nuts would be handy if you want to protect the widening crack on the first tricky 20 metre pitch, which can feel a bit spicier than Diff without much protection after the first 5 metres ;-)
Show beta
βeta: Cams of 3.5 and 4.0 or similar size Torque nuts would be handy if you want to protect the widening crack on the first tricky 20 metre pitch, which can feel a bit spicier than Diff without much protection after the first 5 metres ;-)
dunnyg 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax guidebook line is for variation start.
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax guidebook line is for variation start.
dunnyg 7 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Line in rockfax guide for first pitch appears to be wrong and is for the harder variation start.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Line in rockfax guide for first pitch appears to be wrong and is for the harder variation start.

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Votes cast 20
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lockwood's Chimney

Grade: VD ***
(Clogwyn y Bustach)

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