This is not as good as the Wrinkled Tower and also not as hard since the difficult climbing is easily avoided. It is worth doing though and links well with the fabulous Notch Arete. Follow the runnel below the face up to just below the route, then cut left below the route and back right to a grass ledge with a some scree below a rib.1) From the right end of the ledge, climb the side of a corner made by the rib to gain cleaner water-washed steps. Trend left at first then more direct. Seek out the best climbing as easier terrain is often found right of the rocky rib. Eventually head back left to a corner and climb up it on good holds aiming for a slab.2) Follow the heather rake up the centre of the slab until it ends and then move left on spikes to a heathery ledge below some precarious stacked blocks.3) Avoid the blocks by climbing a narrow vegetated strip to the right until you can traverse left to the edge. 4) From the edge, move left and pull over blocks above the worst of the loose section.5) After an awkward move at the top, easier scrambling leads to an imposing wall. Climb this up its centre.6) Follow your nose to gain rib and climb it to a tricky finish to reach a junction with the ridge just below the North Tower. Continuation - Go up North Ridge of Tryfan or Notch Arete. Descend North Ridge of Tryfan if you have had enough. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Two different routes covered by this name. The Cicerone guides use it for an extended version of Buzzard's Buttress, while the Garry Smith guide uses it for Y Gully/Notch Arete.
Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton
North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith
Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves
North Wales isnt just slate apparently
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Grade: Grade-3 ***
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