A amazing route with challenging and engaging scrambling. The combination with Notch Arete is probably the best and most sustained outing on this face. From the runnel below the face, cut across scree to reach the base of the right-hand end of a heather covered slab, at a scree shoot.1) Move up left from the gully on heather, then climb straight up the slabs aiming for a ledge below some stacked blocks. 2) Gain the blocks by an easy-angled corner to the right, then move back left to the right-hand end of a big ledge, by a large pyramidal pinnacle.3) Move left along the ledge, to below a 4m high flake and climb this to a rib on the left. Exposed climbing leads up on good holds. Pass left of the next pinnacle then go behind and to the right of it to a narrow gully. Bridge up this to more blocks. 4) Above the climbing eases and you can follow the rib to a col below and left of the 'Faulty Tower'.5) Traverse right below the Faulty Tower to the chimney that is partially blocked by a large flake. A good thrutch up the chimney leads to a bay above the flake. 6) Above is hard, so move out to a ledge on the left and onto the exposed, polished and sloping gangway. This leads left to a mind-bending reach left for a flake jug on the arete. Get a sling on this to settle your nerves and make a final reach up for a good hold which leads to a slab and rather frantic scramble onto a ledge with block belays below another tower.7) Gain the crest direct via some big moves. Alternatively, move left a few steps to climb the slot behind the pinnacle and make a bold step across onto the easier terrain. 8) Easy scrambling leads to a clean slab split by a boot-eating crack with flake edges. 9) Easy scrambling up the broken ridge leads to a broken heathery hillside. Head up towards the base of the North Tower.Continuation - Go up North Ridge of Tryfan or Notch Arete. Descend North Ridge of Tryfan if you have had enough. © Rockfax
Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton
North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith
Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves
British 3 Star Scrambles
Snowdonia *** Scrambles
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Grade: M ***
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