Rockfax Description
A amazing route with challenging and engaging scrambling. The combination with Notch Arete is probably the best and most sustained outing on this face. From the runnel below the face, cut across scree to reach the base of the right-hand end of a heather covered slab, at a scree shoot.
1) Move up left from the gully on heather, then climb straight up the slabs aiming for a ledge below some stacked blocks.
2) Gain the blocks by an easy-angled corner to the right, then move back left to the right-hand end of a big ledge, by a large pyramidal pinnacle.
3) Move left along the ledge, to below a 4m high flake and climb this to a rib on the left. Exposed climbing leads up on good holds. Pass left of the next pinnacle then go behind and to the right of it to a narrow gully. Bridge up this to more blocks.
4) Above the climbing eases and you can follow the rib to a col below and left of the 'Faulty Tower'.
5) Traverse right below the Faulty Tower to the chimney that is partially blocked by a large flake. A good thrutch up the chimney leads to a bay above the flake.
6) Above is hard, so move out to a ledge on the left and onto the exposed, polished and sloping gangway. This leads left to a mind-bending reach left for a flake jug on the arete. Get a sling on this to settle your nerves and make a final reach up for a good hold which leads to a slab and rather frantic scramble onto a ledge with block belays below another tower.
7) Gain the crest direct via some big moves. Alternatively, move left a few steps to climb the slot behind the pinnacle and make a bold step across onto the easier terrain.
8) Easy scrambling leads to a clean slab split by a boot-eating crack with flake edges.
9) Easy scrambling up the broken ridge leads to a broken heathery hillside. Head up towards the base of the North Tower.
Continuation - Go up North Ridge of Tryfan or Notch Arete. Descend North Ridge of Tryfan if you have had enough. © Rockfax


Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , North Wales Scrambles - Garry Smith , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , British 3 Star Scrambles , Snowdonia *** Scrambles


User Date Notes
gazj1986 22 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Surely thats not grade 3 exposure, damn. The move is ok when you know the hold position but definitely some clinching going on.
Show beta
βeta: Surely thats not grade 3 exposure, damn. The move is ok when you know the hold position but definitely some clinching going on.

Logged Ascents

331 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Tryfan

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 111 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High D
Mid D
Low D
High M
Mid M
Low M
High none
Mid none
Low none
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
East Gully Ridge

Grade: M ***
(Glyder Fach)

Loading Notifications...