4 pitches.
From the Segnespass Hut, scramble up easy but loose ground for apporox 20m at the base of the Tschingelhorner ridge. Here you reach the first bolted anchor, beneath a much more solid limestone slab on the right side the ridge.
1) 20m. Climb the well-bolted slab, trending left to arrive at the next anchors on the crest of the ridge.
2) 20m. Carefully scramble across the extremely loose ridge crest (3S) towards the narrow gendarme. There are no bolts here, but a few questionable cam/nut placements are possible on the left. In 2023 there were fixed ropes on the E side of the gendarme, as well as bolts. Free climbing the gendarme goes at about 5b, with nice moves using the arete reassuringly and solid holds! Anchor situated on the pinnacle at the top.
3) 30m. Carefully make a very exposed and delicate descent down the W side of the gendarme. There are no bolts here due to the loose rock! From the base of the gendarme, scramble upwards again to reach the base of a 15m wall (loose, no bolts). Climb the face direct, taking great care of loose flakes and holds. There are only a few spaced bolts and old pitons here for protection. In 2023, a short fixed rope was situated on the top few metres of the face, leading to the next anchor.
4) From here to the pass below the Grosses Tshingelhorn, the ridge is a T4 scramble, except for one more gendarme. This is climbed on the right with a short but very exposed traverse. The traverse was well-equipped with fixed ropes, as well as bolts in 2023. Having rounded the gendarme, easy scrambling leads to the pass directly beneath the Grosses Tshingelhorn.
5) from the pass, scramble easily to rech the summit of the Grosses Tschingelhorn (grade 2/3). There are no bolts.
Descent:
Abseiling back down the line of ascent is NOT recommended. Instead, return to the pass beneath the Grosses Tshingelhorn. There is an obvious abseil post located at the pass on the northern side of the ridge. It is embedded in a huge block jutting out from the ridge. From here, make an exposed and overhanging 50m abseil to arrive beside the Martinsloch (a giant hole through the entire ridge). WARNING: The abseil leaves you on very loose scree slopes above more loose cliffs. Be careful not to let your rope ends become entangled on the cliffs beneath you. From here, delicately traverse the scree slopes to reach the mouth of the Martinsloch. From here it is possible to descend on either the Glarus or Graubunden side of the ridge. Both routes involve a 3S scramble on screes, partially-equipped with fixed ropes and via ferrata chains.
1) 20m. Climb the well-bolted slab, trending left to arrive at the next anchors on the crest of the ridge.
2) 20m. Carefully scramble across the extremely loose ridge crest (3S) towards the narrow gendarme. There are no bolts here, but a few questionable cam/nut placements are possible on the left. In 2023 there were fixed ropes on the E side of the gendarme, as well as bolts. Free climbing the gendarme goes at about 5b, with nice moves using the arete reassuringly and solid holds! Anchor situated on the pinnacle at the top.
3) 30m. Carefully make a very exposed and delicate descent down the W side of the gendarme. There are no bolts here due to the loose rock! From the base of the gendarme, scramble upwards again to reach the base of a 15m wall (loose, no bolts). Climb the face direct, taking great care of loose flakes and holds. There are only a few spaced bolts and old pitons here for protection. In 2023, a short fixed rope was situated on the top few metres of the face, leading to the next anchor.
4) From here to the pass below the Grosses Tshingelhorn, the ridge is a T4 scramble, except for one more gendarme. This is climbed on the right with a short but very exposed traverse. The traverse was well-equipped with fixed ropes, as well as bolts in 2023. Having rounded the gendarme, easy scrambling leads to the pass directly beneath the Grosses Tshingelhorn.
5) from the pass, scramble easily to rech the summit of the Grosses Tschingelhorn (grade 2/3). There are no bolts.
Descent:
Abseiling back down the line of ascent is NOT recommended. Instead, return to the pass beneath the Grosses Tshingelhorn. There is an obvious abseil post located at the pass on the northern side of the ridge. It is embedded in a huge block jutting out from the ridge. From here, make an exposed and overhanging 50m abseil to arrive beside the Martinsloch (a giant hole through the entire ridge). WARNING: The abseil leaves you on very loose scree slopes above more loose cliffs. Be careful not to let your rope ends become entangled on the cliffs beneath you. From here, delicately traverse the scree slopes to reach the mouth of the Martinsloch. From here it is possible to descend on either the Glarus or Graubunden side of the ridge. Both routes involve a 3S scramble on screes, partially-equipped with fixed ropes and via ferrata chains.
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