150m, 3 pitches.
A bolted route, often on loose rock. It climbs the southern side of the Tshingelhorner ridge in three pitches. There is a run out section on pitch 2 where the climbing is easy (around 4a) and not steep, but the rock is very loose (too loose for bolts!). The rest is well protected. Total route length is approx 150m.
Descent-
Descending back down the route is not recommended due to the loose rock. Instead there is a fixed abseil post on the pass beneath the Grosses Tschingelhorn. From this, a spectacular 50m overhanging abseil down the southern side of the ridge drops you down right beside the Martinsloch, and onto very loose scree. Beware of your rope ends getting tangled in the loose rocks below.
A more detailed topo and route description can be found in the Swiss climbing guidebook for Glarus.
Descent-
Descending back down the route is not recommended due to the loose rock. Instead there is a fixed abseil post on the pass beneath the Grosses Tschingelhorn. From this, a spectacular 50m overhanging abseil down the southern side of the ridge drops you down right beside the Martinsloch, and onto very loose scree. Beware of your rope ends getting tangled in the loose rocks below.
A more detailed topo and route description can be found in the Swiss climbing guidebook for Glarus.
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