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Climbs 119
Rocktype Limestone

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Eglwyseg Escarpment - from above the Horseshoe Pass before the rain came back © richprideaux

Crag features

The Twilight Zone is the collective name for two small, interesting limestone buttresses in close vicinity of each other. Some of the best quality limestone in the Eglwyseg valley can be found here, with everything from smooth slabs to wild roof climbing.

Approach notes

The crags can be found near the second tributary
valley down from World's End Crag. Coming from Llangollen, just over the humpback bridge near Plas yn Eglwyseg farm the road bends sharply right, and a few metres up the road after the bend there are some small pull-ins on the right. Park here, or further up the road on the lay-by to the left. Walk back over the bridge to where a sign for a public footpath can be found. Walk up the field to its left to where the woods start. Fight your way through the woods until you come to a fence; surmount this, and soon the crags will be in full view in front of you.

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Guidebooks

Clwyd Limestone

This Clwyd Limestone Rockfax covers virtually all of the sport and trad climbing available in and around the Clwydian hills as well as the very best trad and sport climbs at the outlying Pandy Outcrop, Llanymynech Quarry and Pontesford Rocks.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)
Clwyd Rock (1993)

Out of print:
A great crag, with stupendous views across the valley. Some superb quality rock on the routes, but quite loose up top - helmets recommended. Building a belay at the base of the climbs isn't the worst idea - not somewhere you'd want to be falling off and dragging your belayer down the hill!
Otis - 24/Aug/14
Went there yesterday. Nice, unbusy (we only saw one other group all day) mountain crag. Some great rock, but some loose stuff too!
lemon - 13/Jul/09
Not a fun place, approach chossy, base of crags reasonably steep grass, descents iffy due to steep slippy grass. Wont be returning.
Nige G - 27/Oct/05
A better description of the approach is 'cross the stile and stream behind the house and head diagonally left uphill across the field passed a marker post to a stile and gate on the north edge of the wood. Follow the track along the side of the wood and the path up the valley towards the crags'
rod pirie - 06/May/05
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Climbs at this crag

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